I am having trouble with chapter 9 step 35 and associated figure 39 for the long tenons on the tabletop bread board ends. It appears to me that you are missing the dimensions of the width of the middle tenon and the right hand tenon as well as the space between the middle tenon and the right hand tenon. Am I missing something?
I wanted to start a new string but don't see how to do it. Would that be the right thing to do or do you want this string to continue on with further questions? In any case I am running into a problem creating the elongated holes described in chapter 9, step 30 on page 54. You say in the text:
"When you copy the hole, you may see that the copy doesn’t appear to go through the frame component; all you will see is the outline of the hole. To fix that, zoom in very close to the hole and trace over a small part of the hole outline. You should then be able to click on the hole and eliminate the bogus face. Do the same on the opposite face of the frame component to clear the hole."
I have tried all variations I can think of but the hole does not appear to go through. It looks fine in x-ray view but not shaded. Can you clarify what needs to be done further?
Thank you for the clarification. I now can get the rotation to work. I will send you my model for comment on why I was unable to edit the components as you suggest in Chapter 7, step 4. I would prefer to use your method rather than creating many layers if I can understand how to make it work.
I have been using Sketchup for about 6 months having learned it from online tutorials and Sketchup Forums and went through the book pretty quickly until chapter 7 where I have had a lot of difficulty. I am using Sketchup 8 for this work. From the comments here I see that others have had similar problems. In particular, beginning on page 34 in step 4, I was unable to create the tongue and groove joints in the top and side until I had physically separated them using the Move tool. I ran into this same problem in several places later on in the chapter. One idea that I have found useful is to make multiple layers with like components on the same layer. That way you can only have the parts that you are working on visible and the others invisible. For the magazine rack, ther would be a top, bottom, side, skirt and partition layer. Then you don't have to keep moving pieces around. The only drawback of this is that you have to be always aware of which layer you are drawing on.
Also on page 36 near the end of step 10 I was unable to carry out the rotation of the cutout as you suggest using the move tool as it would only let me rotate around the red axis. I had to use the Rotate tool to be able to rotate around the necessary green axis.
If you have any suggestions about what I might have done wrong in these cases, I would appreciate hearing them.
How did you make the bench dog with the square top? Is a square shape better than a round one?
I agree with Magerback and deHardy-post the cutlist online.
Make a mark on top of the fence with permanent marker indicating the start of the table insert and never allow your hands to go beyond that mark.
It would be a good idea to keep all flammables such as varnish, paint thinner, shellac, etc. in an approved metal container.
This is a good addition. I think it would be useful for you to refer to your earliest personalization advice in the archive of 25 April 2007 as well. It is really useful for getting the tools set up.
I don't think a hand sander is the proper comparison to a handplane. A power jointer would be the correct power tool. I agree with other commenters that speed is not the issue in Fine Woodworking. It is using the proper tool for the job at hand.
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