NickJW

Also when copy-rotating the staves, I would copy from the left hand corner of the stave the the right hand one, then you don't need to know how many degrees it is.

Dave,

To get the circles to scale about their centres you can set their axes to the centre of the circle first.

http://www.randomhouse.com/wotd/index.pperl?date=20000317

How right you are.

SU has some odd misfeatures.

I've just given it a try. It's not necessary to do the rotation step, and this leaves the flute at the correct dimension. You can select and drag the bottom 12 segments of the circle downwards quite happily.

That's brilliant Dave.

Sorry Dave but that's not it.

In a new file I just drew a rectangle selected it and went to create a component - checkbox ticked.

Then I added a new line coming from one of the corners of the rectangle and left it unselected. Go to create a component and the checkbox is still ticked.

I then cleared the selection and re-made it. The checkbox is still ticked.

All this in SU Pro 8 using the brand new release, but it is also the same on last week's version on my other PC. Not thaat it's your problem of course.

Another mis-feature of SU. It really ought to remember the state of the checkbox, and not set it randomly.

Tim, Yes, the prompts on the solid operations ought to be a little more helpful.

Tim, Why don't you use the Subtract tool? Subtract flute from pilaster - job done (after repeating 4 times), no messing around with multiple leftover parts, no unwanted faces to be deleted.

Oh, and skip step two.

Hi Dave,

You forgot the Push/Pull method. Start as for your Follow Me method then at step 3 push the face you have shown as selected. Repeat on the other outer face.

The holes problem is a royal PITA and shouldn't happen. Please vote for the suggesation that I made on the Google site that they should address this isue. You can find the question here: https://www.google.com/moderator/#8/e=24a7a

Also please spread the word.

Hobbyist - one who practices a hobby
Hobbiest - the most hobbi member of a group of three or more.

One rule I have in the shop is that if I make three mistakes in a day, and it doesn't matter how small or silly those mistakes are, I shut up shop. I'd rather lose a day's work than a finger.

I wonder how SU would work on an iPad? I think you really need a mouse with a scroll button to be effective. I hate it when I go out on a job, forget to pack my mouse, and have to use the thouchpad on my laptop. Ugh!

Am I missing something here? Where's the secret? All I can see of the O.P. is:

What about you? If your woodworking is part of your livelihood what's been your experience with starting your business and entrepreneurship?

Let's keep the conversation going below.

I don't suppose there's much chance of you sending them to the UK, but here goes anyway.

Hi Dave,

I tried several times to download it, and used several ZIP programs to try to open it all to no avail. However Josef (the writer of the program) has e-mailed me a ZIP file which works fine. So many thanks to Josef, excellent service.

Hi Dave,

Your link seems to point to a file that is not valid, at least from WinZIP's p.o.v. I have sent an e-mail to the author about this, so hopefully it will be fixed soon.

Hi Dave,

There is an easier way (at least i think its easier) to get the rotate tool to change its axis, which has the added bonus of allowing you to rotate about ANY axis. When setting the initial rotation point, click and then drag in the direction that you want to use as the axis. You can use all the usual inferences to rotate parallel to any of the axes, additionaly you can use any pair of points to set an axis in any other direction, including ones not in any of the basic planes.

I too suffered from scanner failure a while back. I used my digital camera instead. :D

One thing I keep forgetting how to do, and had hoped to see in this post, was placing a guide point at the centre of a circle - like the one seen in your images above. The trick is to right click on the circle and select 'Point at center' from the context menu.

Hi Dave,

When I do scenes like these I use separate layers for each scene. Often I also have some layers that are common to more than one scene, containing the stuff which does not change between them. Is there any reason you don't do them this way?

Nick