I also love my router plane (and would have used it rather than a chisel for all the cut -- just last week I cut a series of dadoes entirely with the router plane), but there's an easy way to use the router for this if you want to. Just plan ahead, and cut the top shelf a bit long -- maybe 1/2 inch. Then cut the dadoes either moving the fence or using a shim making it a bit further in from the end than its final position will be -- it should be easy enough to estimate within 1/4 inch without any need for tweaking. Cut the dadoes, then cut the top shelf to final length.
Interesting to read about, but I'm not going to abandon my hide glue until I see a real reason to. It's totally safe, it has no dangerous fumes, it's still holding together furniture, including chairs, that have been in constant use for several hundred years, it washes off easily even after its cured, it doesn't interfere with stains or finishes, it doesn't creep. You can even get it today in liquid form, no glue pot. What's not to like?
I can see where production shops that want to get parts glued quickly to get to the next steps,and where they can machine parts to the very close tolerances that this glue apparently requires, might find a use for it. But for the hobbyist, especially one who doesn't always get micro-tight tolerances in his joints and for whom waiting overnight for a joint to cure isn't an isue, I'm not sure I see the benefits of this glue.
I don't reject any tool that can do a good job for me no matter its origin or how it may have been used in the past. I use tools that were developed for metal working (drill press), auto body repair (circular sanders), even gamblers (playing cards for shims) and bankers (dollar bills for setting band saw blocks). If a tool works for me, I'll use it.
There are times when holding a board down on the bench with one hand and taking a shaving or two off the end with a block plane is more efficient, and just as effective, as carrying it over to the vi[c][s]e (take your pick), c[l][r]amping it in, and using a heavier smoothing plane. If Phil wants his students to take the extra time and effort, fine. I'll get the job done faster and just as well.
Since the courts have ruled that we now all have to be using SawStop technology, it seems safe enough.
Oh, I guess there are still a few die hard legacy hold-outs not using SawStop. But since they haven't had the intelligence to convert to the new technology, who cares if they get hurt?
Okay, maybe sarcasm wasn't what you were looking for in your comments. If so, though, too bad!
Be aware, though, that if you have a standard width splitter you can't use a thin kerf blade unless you remove the splitter. As far as I'm concerned, the minor saving in wood from a thinner kerf is far outweighed by the added danger from removing the splitter.
I would make a major bet that this gets overturned on appeal.
Seen the cookies advertised. Not sure whether they're a gimmick or a valuable new idea. If I win them, I'll find out and let y'all know!
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