MKenney

Looks great Tom. I really like how the room turned out, too.

Thanks for the nice comments. It is fairly large. (Kelly isn't as tall as I am, but he's certainly not tiny!) All of the case joint are dowel joints. I did it that way for a couple of reasons. First, I'd never done it before and I wanted to see how it worked. It turned out to be very easy and plenty strong enough. (If it's good enough for Krenov, it's good enough for me.) Normally, I attach an overhanging top/bottom with a sliding dovetail. Second, I was in a hurry, and it's a fast joint.

And pitbull, I'm glad I'm not the only one who likes the DT spacing.

Ed,

Now that I've seen this video, I think the price on that used router just went up significantly! Kidding of course, I'd should lower it seeing as you haven't posted any of the ridiculous stuff I did on film during that week.

-Matt

HGM,

Matt here. The mill did kiln dry the boards. And there were a lot of boards in the 20 in. wide range, both 4/4 and 8/4. It was really a once in a lifetime deal for us.

This is just part 1. John has part 2 in the works, I'm sure.

Windwoodtrader,

Thanks for the ideas. A shoulder plane actually won't work on 1/2 of the rabbets, because the angle of the rabbet's corner is less than 90 degrees. As for a coach plane, I don't have one and I've never seen one out in the wilds. And by the time I track one down or make one, I would have blown past the grooves many weeks before using my method. I'm all for using handtools--and I rely on them heavily in my shop--but I don't use them just to use them. I use them when they are practical. And a coach plane is not a practical solution in this case (at least not for the overwhelming majority of woodworkers).

Matt

Regarding the cleanliness of the shops in the magazine, we often hear the same objection, that real shops don't look that nice, clean, organized, etc. Are there dirty shops out there? Of course. However, I've come to realize that professional woodworkers (and many of our authors are) tend to keep clean, organized shops all the time, because a dirty one would make them less efficient and would make it harder to get the job done. The hobbyist shops I've been into are by and large clean, too. And we don't send any rules or instructions to our authors.

--Matt

Sorry guys. Just a boring spelling mistake. Sometimes I type too fast for my own good.

blakewd,

Thanks for posting your experience. I'm glad the sled has proved useful.

--Matt

Ralph,

I'm a big advocate of shooting boards. I use mine all the time, and you might recall my article in FWW #214 where I show how I made it (and two other bench jigs) and how I use them. Also, I used to think that the tablesaw wasn't a precision tool. I was wrong. I set mine up properly, got a good fence and some great blades and use the appropriate jigs where they are needed. This sled is an example. It cuts dead accurate miters. I use miters straight from this sled to make boxes and they are perfectly square. However, when I need to fine tune a miter, I use my shooting board, because I take off the thinnest of shavings one at a time.

--Matt

Larry,

Good question. This sled is for case miters, like those found at the corners of a box, and are usually several inches across. As jlanc57 pointed out, they are typically too tall to run past the blade on edge (against a fence that is 45 degrees to the blade, which would be at 90 degrees). As for setting the blade to 45 degrees. It doesn't take any test cuts. I use the head of my 12 in. combination square to set the blade's angle. As long as you have a good one, there shouldn't be any problem. A digital gauge is unnecessary. And a good 12 in. combination square is useful for so many things.

As for getting that second screw set, if you run into trouble, just pull it out and put in somewhere else. Don't try to reuse the same hole. It will just continue to pull the fence out of square. However, I recommend that you re-check the fence for square after you have it clamped down but before you drive the second screw. That's what I do and I don't have any trouble getting the fence screwed down square.

--Matt

Thanks for all of the comments. Yes, I am using aluminum and not steel. I made a change to the text. And I'm using a 12 in. combination square to square the fence. It looks short because I have some of the blade on both sides of the kerf. I find it easier to hold the fence square when I do that way. And there are a ton of ways to make a sled. I've made a lot this way (for square and miter cuts) and it's always proven to be simple, fast, and accurate. So, I thought I'd share.

-Matt

Nice post Doug. I'm glad there are folks like Beth and you out there teaching the craft to the next generation.

Hey Tom,

Although I appreciate kingmason looking out for my financial well-being, please don't buy me the granite surfacing plate sold at Woodcraft. It's not the same size as the one I want (too small) and won't work for the way that I grind. Of course, I could get two from Woodcraft and have the same surface area as the one from Grizzly!

Matt

jazzflute: I've got another blog coming to explain how I cut the drawer front blanks into small drawer fronts. I did use the same fence for my miter gauge.

msdr: I am aware of the bit from Lee Valley, but I don't think it's a better solution in this case. First, I don't fancy routing the a small drawer that's held together by a band clamp (these drawers have a curved front and traditional clamps wouldn't work to hold it together). And if I were to do the drawer front by itself, with no fence, then I'd need to balance a workpiece much taller than it is wide on the narrow edge--not a good idea. And it's really not difficult to get the grooves in the sides to line up with the one in the front.

Also, the fence has the added benefits of covering the majority of the bit during operation and dust collection.

Liz,

I would object to how you've portrayed me in this blog if it weren't so accurate!

Matt

I should clarify that I was using a trim router to do this. It is common to use them one handed. And I have profiled the edge of many pieces that weren't clamped down. However, even if the piece were clamped down it wouldn't have a difference. The accident didn't happen because of the workpiece. It wasn't involved at all.

Jollyrodger,

Good question. I didn't use MDF. That's hardboard and I covered the side touching the boards (and glue) with packing tape, so it doesn't stick to the squeeze out.

Matt

BSzydlo,

The box is 2 in. tall by 5 in. wide by 8 in. long. However, when I make this box, I typically just size it to the material that I have on hand, so it could be a bit shorter, narrower, or not as long. As for the inserts (I'm guessing that you mean the fabric ones inside the box), those are just fabric glued down to foam. In this case, the foam is 1/2 in. thick. I get it at the fabric store my wife goes to, but I think you should be able to buy it any fabric store and perhaps crafts supply stores, too. I use spray glue, the kind you can buy at Home Depot, Lowes, etc.

cjsquirl,

I'll ask John again, but it might that neither one of us remembers! Thanks for the compliments.

What? Only 675 entries? Doesn't anybody want these things? Just kidding of course. Great job every body. Of course, I had no idea that groovy could be worked into so many different statements. And oh, thanks to everyone for pointing out all of my shortcomings (farmer's tan, baldness, ugly plaid shirt, etc.). Remind me not to invite you folks over on a regular basis!

Walnut shavings from plywood? That's not walnut. It's English Elm. And it's an old alchemy trick I learned in school that lets me turn birch ply into imported English elm. Of course, I can't share that trick with you.

Nice work so far folks. Keep them coming.

None taken. I was the third of four children. I can definitely take some good natured (and not-so-good-natured) abuse.

Of the two choices you offer I would pick barrel, so that the grain looks like sets of parentheses. A door always looks better when the grain encircles the frame. But if I had my choice, it would all be straight grain. Of course, that might not be an option.

Good luck.

Sorry for not responding sooner. I wish I'd get email notifications of new comments! There is no template for the Cindy dresser (at least not one available outside of Judson's shop). If you guys post some specific questions here, I'll ask Judson. In the meantime, have you read his article in FWW #217. We show him making this dresser in that article. There are no drawings or plans, but it does show the process.

As for constraints, I think he would say that there aren't any.

Good luck, Matt

tomwoodworker,

You might be the first person to buy them! Cool. The irons aren't actually short. LN made them to the exact dimensions of the irons I made for my planes, so as long as you make the same planes you'll be fine.

Good luck with the building. Matt

ATLbound,

Yes, the shop is open to the public and I suspect you can hang out as long as you want.

Matt

Guys,

Sorry I didn't answer sooner. I'm in Canada on a photo shoot and haven't been able to check the site much. I'm not saying this in a snarky way, but the box says precisely what I quoted: "Made in England with Global components." That's all I know at this point. I'll see about finding out more. I know that it is an important question to many woodworkers here in the US.

Matt

Swenson,

Current information about prices is on the way. As soon as we get it, I'll update this blog.

This is great news. I visited the old shop right before I started at FWW. I was teaching at Furman University and the shop was just a few miles down the road. It was a nice setup. The new one looks better. I spoke with one of their board members (at least I recall he was) that day. These guys do a ton of volunteer work around Greenville and deserve all of the good karma that comes their way.

Bill,

Thanks for checking in. I'm glad you like the photos. I took your meaning about the panel gauge. I'll go back and edit the caption so that folks understand that it's only the design that isn't period correct. But it's nice nonetheless.

Matt

Joe,

Thanks for the request. As I mentioned in the blog, we'll work with Andrew to get some of his approach into the magazine. My first intention is to cover Japanese smoothing planes.

I'll pass along the many request for us to include a note on the total Bd. Ft. (or pieces of sheet goods) needed for a given project. It certainly doesn't take up much space.

Also, I'm glad this has sparked so many comments. It's always a good thing to discuss topics like this. Folks who have been around for a while have their ways of working and understand how to buy lumber, but new folks don't.

I'd like to give my two cents on that topic, though. Personally, I don't find knowing the estimated number of Bd. Ft. very helpful. I don't go to the lumber yard and just pick out boards until I have the right number of Bd. Ft. (I doubt many people--if anyone-does.) Rather, I do what my friend Kelly Dunton does (I linked to his approach). I go and pick out boards that are aesthetically pleasing, have the right kind of grain and color, and will give me the parts I need. After I do that, I quickly calculate the Bd. Ft. and know exactly how much it will cost.

As for estimating the cost before I go, I must admit that I have come to a point in my woodworking where I have resolved that the cost of the wood doesn't matter. I want to make the best possible piece I can, and I'll buy the wood that is necessary.

Steve,

This is no doubt a hilarious stories. I told it and showed the drawings as part of a short presentation at this years Working Wood in the 18th Century conference at Colonial Williamsburg. It got the laughs I expected. And I have no problem laughing at my own stupidity.

Interesting piece. Reminds me of a piece by Judson Beaumont, who is featured in FWW 217. It's called Beaver. Check it out: http://www.straightlinedesigns.com/beaver.html.

You're right. I should have said "should be." I'll edit the sentence to read: "Also, the sole of the plane should be exactly 90 degrees to the side it will ride on. Otherwise, you waste time fiddling with the lateral adjust to bring the blade square to the board, especially when you've returned it to the plane after sharpening."

Now I'll offer some advice to anyone looking to get started with shooting boards and needs a plane. If you buy a new plane and its side isn't square to its sole, send it back and get another one. If you come across an old plane that's out of square, put it down and keep looking.

Peter,

I have felt the pain of expensive hinges many times. And I wouldn't be surprised if stamped, non-mortise hinges from a hardware store were extremely durable. However, neither point would sway me away from buying pricey, solid brass hinges for my cabinets. Here's why. They look better. (I suppose I should add "at least in my opinion" to satisfy those who think beauty is only in the eye of the beholder. I'm not one of them, though.) After spending a big chunk of money on lumber that I took great pains to pick out, and then spending a lot of time selecting grain for every part, milling them all with the greatest care, carefully cutting joints, lovingly prepping the surface for a finish, and finally putting a finish on, I simply cannot buy unattractive hinges to save a few bucks. Money isn't the most important thing. Beauty is.

Great work. And horribly left handed. I love it.

Steve,

Absolutely. I would love the gallery to continuously expand, so post photos whenever you make a new tool.

-Matt

Beau,

I don't know the specifics of how she makes them, but my guess is that she bandsaws out the curve and them smooths is. They were made from solid wood.

Good luck.

Benito9,

I wouldn't try to modify the Hock shoulder plane. You'd have to grind the blade and modify the body. By the time you've done that, you've essentially done all of the work you would have done to make one yourself. However, you don't need to go old school to make a molding plane. The style that Clark & Williams make are very nice, but also tough to make. Instead, make one using the building technique made popular by James Krenov. David Finck recently did an article explaining how to make a smoothing plane that way (in FWW #196, "Wooden Planes Made Easy"). I've used that technique to make molding style planes. It works. You can use the iron blanks sold by Lie-Nielsen.

Matt

Adam,

I did use a finish: just a single coat of Tried & True boiled linseed oil. I hope the gauge works well for you. Matt

BStev,

I'll have to check with Michael to see if he uses MDF. I'm familiar with a lot of his work and most, if not all, of his veneering deals with curved panels. And he uses various kinds of flexible plywood for that. However, I do know that Thomas Schrunk recommends MDF over plywood for veneering. He has written for us about veneering and veneering is his primary business.

As for whether MDF can be used to make fine furniture, I'd say absolutely. Fine furniture is not a product of the material or the construction techniques. Its a product of a designer. In other words, if you give MDF to the right designer, he or she will produce fine furniture. It might not be traditional, but traditional isn't the same thing as fine. (I've seen tons of traditionally made furniture that was far from fine.)

John,

It all comes down to the cutting angle. The two most popular bevel-up metal body shoulder planes (LN and LV) have cutting angles of 43 and 40 degrees respectively. The Hock plane is bevel-down, but is bedded at 37 1/2 degrees, so it's cutting angle is 37 1/2 degrees. That's almost 5 degrees lower than the LN! That surprised me when I first did the comparison. In theory the Hock should handle end grain better because of its lower angle. However, a bevel-up plane works (at least in theory) end grain a bit better. Based on experience--I've used all three--there isn't a bad choice among them. I'd say let ergonomics, ease of use, etc. be you deciding factor.

-Matt

Rollie,

I was shocked (and I'm still annoyed) that I can't buy solvent-based varnish here in CT. I used to make my own wiping varnish for table tops other high use areas on furniture. However, there has been one good consequence stemming from the void:I know use shellac for my furniture. And I couldn't be happier.

Check that, I meant to say I'm not defending the price.

Listen, I'm defending the price. I'm just pointing out that there is more to it than you suggested. And if you really want to be fair to Hock Tools, make sure you factor in the cost of the time you spend buying, milling, and otherwise working the wood to get to the point they do. The cost of anything involves more than just the cost of the raw material. There is the labor, too. That's part of the reason a tool made overseas can cost much less than the same tool made here in the US.

Jarrod,

I did not chamfer the edges. I think that's just a trick of the lights.

Matt

cousinchas,

I'm sorry I wasn't clearer in my post. I actually didn't get 3 scraps of wood and piece of metal from Hock Tools. The kit comes with a blade that has been shaped and heat treated properly, not a "piece of metal". (Shoulder plane blades have a unique shape and its not one that can be easily duplicated without metal working machinery.) There are actually 4 pieces of wood in the kit, but I wouldn't describe them as scrap. The 2 pieces of Jatoba, for example, have a unique shape that would be a pain to mill accurately in the average shop. What I'm pointing out is that $90 buys more than a piece of metal and some wood scrap.

EngrMike,

Yes, I did re-saw a thicker board for the sides. I always do that, even when I use a dovetail joint at the corners. It just looks nicer, and it's one of those small details that you have to pay attention to when making boxes. The smaller the box, the more important it is. The trick when re-sawing is that once you have re-sawn the board, joint the matching faces just enough to get rid of the BS marks. The less material you remove the better the match with be at the corners. To plane the board down to thickness, only take material away from the other faces of the sides. At least, that's how I do it. I explain the process in greater detail in that box making video workshop linked in the post.

cnar,

That was Seth Rolland. It was in FWW #213. The piece is on the back cover, and then there is a short article that explains how he did it. Also, just as a helpful note, if you have another question like this send it to fw at taunton dot com. We read that email everyday and you'll get a quicker response.

akwood2,

Very cool. How long did it take to grind out the guts of the original plane? And how did you do that?

Grant,

Sorry about the confusion. I honestly don't remember what I did! I'll take a look at them when I get home and post back. However, I can say with complete confidence that there is only 1 slot per holder. Most likely, I cut the slot at the TS, shaped the holder to fit the handle, and then did something else that involved cutting.

You're right that it might get dinged up, but that won't bother me. I seriously doubt that I'll ever refinish the paint. And though it took a bit more time than just hanging a bare cabinet, it was time well spent. I was able to test out some ideas on a piece of furniture that I could afford to mess up.

Matt

Splinter1,

I checked around with some other folks and I think you're okay laminating another layer onto the store bought top. Here is some advice. First, use the same species. Second, the boards should be approximately the same size. Three, you'll need to figure out some way to get clamping pressure along the entire length of the laminates so that the glue between the layers is tight. I would make cauls to spread pressure. It will take quite a few.

Now that I think about it a bit more, if I were in your position, I might sell the top I have and use the money to make the top I wanted. Much less hassle.

Good luck. Matt

Brian,

Those shoulder planes are very cool. I think a small one might be in the near future for me.

Matt

Splinter1,

Another great question. I think you'd be okay glue up to make the top thicker, but I'll ask around and get some other opinions.

Matt

Kayaks,

Thanks for the responses. I'll look into it.

Matt

Kayaks,

Good question. Basically, you're asking whether miter joints, reinforced by domino slip tenons, are strong enough to keep the case square, right? The case is 84 in. long and solid wood. How wide (front to back) is it?

Thanks, Matt

JWB76,

You could use a wooden plane. In Woodwork #104 Kerry Pierce wrote an article about shooting boards and gave a plan for a wooden miter plane that he made. The bed angle was 35 degrees and the blade was bevel down. With a wooden plane, the bed needs to be fairly high (35 might be lowest) because the blade is held in by a wedge. If the bed is too low, then the wedge can get forced out by the action of planing. If you'd like, send me an email (mkenney at taunton dot com) and I can email you the plan for that plane. I have a copy of the issue in question.

Matt

I wanted to chime in again and point out a few things. An earlier person suggested that PBS is more interested in compelling on-screen personalities--and might look past a lack of skill--in their hosts. I don't know about that, but I can say from personal experience that Tommy is an excellent craftsman. I have seen his work in person, touched it, opened the drawers, looked at the dovetails, the carvings, etc. And it is all great work. Second, I know Tommy has a big personality and that some might see him as arrogant, but that's not my experience. He is a genuine guy and he really cares about woodworking and helping others learn. Finally, I didn't say this in my blog, but I'm looking forward to the rest of season one and the next two seasons. Sure I see room for improvement, but that's not a bad thing. And I'm patient enough to give Tommy and his crew a chance to learn and improve the show.

Folks,

I appreciate all the great comments and interest in the planes. Here is an update, as of Oct. 1, 2010. First, we've done all the work for an article on how to make them. And it has been scheduled for an issue. It will be out in the spring (with the caveat that nothing is for certain until it is actually in print). Also, Lie-Nielsen has made blades for these planes and will sell them. I'm not sure when. I've seen a pair and they are exactly like the ones I made for myself.

As for posting plans or an explanation on the website before it's in the magazine, I'll have to check on that.

--Matt

Well, there was that one day I was knocked out with ether and woke up with a sore neck. Perhaps I was out of range over the weekend. But I do wish we'd get notices of comments to the blogs like we get for threads on Knots.

Steve,

Thanks for helping Tompee14 out. I sometimes get so busy over the weekend that I don't check my blogs.

Matt

And sorry about the text in the drawings. I made the images as big as I could. But don't worry, the text in the drawings doesn't say anything different than what is in the caption and the blog itself.

Folks,

I see there are a few questions here. Let me put in my two cents.

1. Should you break in the shooting board before using it? Sure, but only one pass is needed. With one pass, you should get a full depth cut and that would set the lip as deep as it's going to get.

2. What type of plane should I use? I use a low-angle jack and I bought for use with a shooting board. Here's what I know, based on a whole lot of shooting: I always get square ends and true miters. And there is plenty of side wall to rest the plane on. I would not hesitate at all to use a low-angle jack for shooting. The most important feature on a plane for shooting is that the sole and the side that the plane rests on are a true 90 degrees to one another. After that, I'd say comfort when using, followed by having enough sidewall to rest on without a lot of instability, and then mass (more is better). Here's why I wouldn't use a standard bench plane (and I used one for a long time): They're not made to be held on by the side and they get very uncomfortable very quickly. The low-angle jack is very comfortable to use on its side. But that's me and my hand.

Hope that helps.

DoctorDan,

Thanks for bringing the Woodfast to our attention. The Rikon looks similar to it. Whether they are identical is another question. Also, Woodfast is not a brand that is available in the US (at least I've never seen it for sale anywhere in the US), so even if the Rikon is the exact same machine (plus the rollers) the Rikon would still be news for the majority of our readers (who live in the US).

Matt

Steve,

Thanks for pointing out the Veritas planes. Of course, I own one and am aware of what they call them. However, I stand by my distinction. If the bevel is up, it's a block plane. If the bevel is down, it's a bench plane. (And to cite an example contrary to Veritas, check out the "Block Plane" page at LN's website.)

Matt

40heder,

Like all T-square fences, the Unifence doesn't clamp at the back. Does it flex under use? Perhaps, but if it does, it has no meaningful consequences on the fence's use. Also, the rips are still parallel, at least parallel enough for woodworking. If properly set up, I doubt you could measure any variance with a standard shop rule, which means the rips are more than accurate enough for building furniture.

Forrestgirl,

Thanks for catching the spelling mistake. However, "malign" is a perfectly suitable adjective. Also, thanks for giving us your opinion about another feature of the fence.

And for all those who have asked why it has been discontinued, I will attempt to get an official answer from Delta.

Woodsmith,

My Unisaw is also right tilt. However, I almost never tilt my blade. I know that's odd, but it's just how I work. I steer clear of miters unless there for something small, like a box. In those cases, I use a chamfer bit at the router table or my shooting board and a low angle jack plane.

As for the teflon pads, I should probably track down some spares now, before they're no longer available. Thanks for the idea.

Brian,

I should have put this in my last comment. I'm using this design as a basis for mine: http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/blade_guard.pdf.

Good luck.

Brian,

It will definitely be shop-made. I plan to make a the guard from Lexan and everything else from solid wood or plywood. I'm sure to post a blog about it when I'm done.

Tomman: The Titebond III has held just fine so far. The plies were very thin (1/8 in.) and not in the steambox for very long, so they were never all that wet. And they dried out quickly as well.

Uncledean: I could have used a smaller steam box, but I used what was available. As for the number of clamps needed, I don't think that would have changed much. What would have lessened the number of clamps needed is a few cauls shaped to fit the curves. I do wish I had done that.

BobboMax: Admittedly, I had a ton of clamps at my disposal, plus 3-4 helpers. If you don't have as many clamps, use clamping cauls. They will distribute the pressure over a wider area than just clamps and so you need less clamps.

Ah. That seems to have been edited out of the video. The jointer/planer sells for $1700 and is already available.

Bill,

I can't believe I forgot to mention the shank size. It's 1/4 in., so no special collet adapter is needed.

The blade is currently available and you should be able to buy it anywhere Freud blades are sold.

colothomas,

No need to apologize for asking a question. A typical standard-kerf blade cuts a 1/8 in. thick kerf. This Freud thin-kerf cuts about a 3/32 in. thick kerf, which is a fairly common kef size for thin-kerf blades. That might not sound like a big difference, but from my experience using both it is noticeable. And I've never used blade stiffeners. As for availability, I'll try to check back with the Freud folks and post again.

We don't have a booth. Asa, Rollie, and I are living a vagabond existence this year, roaming the halls and covering the news. However, all three of us are decked out in Fine Woodworking finery, so if you see us say hello. As for the meeting place, we're meeting up at the top of the escalators that lead down to the B Hall.

Have fun.

Thanks for the complements guys. It's nice to hear good feedback.

Jeff,

I made those planes and there will be an article about them sometime soon. I've written it and we have already shot the photos, but I can't say with certainty when it will be out.

Matt

Steve,

I did say it (the article about me grooving planes) was coming, but not until the end of the year (at the soonest). I still cannot say with any certainty when it will be out, but it is coming.

Matt

Steve,

I would guess that Doug believes actually trying something out to see if it works or not is better than assuming it won't. No matter how improbable a solution might be, you'll never know if it will work until you try. And Doug is actually trying to understand the problem (I gathered that much from reading all of his posts and his response to comments). Also, even if he is way off base about this, he might stumble upon something else that is tremendously valuable. I won't knock him for trying. There are many far less productive things he could be doing.

Nice job seventhson. And good decision to use the wood you had available. I hope the bench continues to be a good fit for you.

-Matt

By the way folks, OTW is the screen name of the gentleman who made the horizontal router table.

Matt

toych,

There are 2 dust collection ports, but you can't see either in the video or pictures. One is beneath the stationary table. The other actually does double duty as a guard. It slides over two vertical bars coming off the top of the router mount assembly. It works quite well, but we left it off for clarity's sake.

Matt

Holy distracted woodworker Batman! I never expected this many people to take their shot at writing a caption. It's great. Make offerings to the muse and keep them coming.

That's a nice little bench. My guy has ideas about what his bench should look like, so we'll see.

Hubiedoo517:

Hey. No quoting Larry from The Razor's Edge! However, you do get credit for quoting good literature.

--Matt

Hmm, that bench looks familiar. Nice job.

Gina, thanks for correcting that spelling mistake. You know the old saying: Every editor needs an editor. And, at least in this case, a sharp-eyed reader.

Matt

Dean,

I'd never seen that back cover before. That is one astounding piece of home-built machinery. I'll scan the cover next week and add it to the post above.

Matt

Brent in Iowa,

Sorry not to respond sooner. I don't get a notification when someone posts a comment to my blogs. I bought my bench bolts from Lee Valley.

Best, Matt

saschefer,

That's right. The Wired piece actually features an Aspen grove that is about 80,000 years old.

dcgrafix:I never had any problems from holding Japanese pull saws. Are you having trouble with them?

dyweller: Could you give me some examples of the kind of subtle and advanced techniques you have in mind?

shrogers4,

Not a bad idea. I'll keep notes on how they work and write up a blog on each one.

I see a few more questions have popped up for me.

1. I prefer to use my bench (the so-called monster bench), but it wasn't practical to bring it in for this video. The bench I was using is in our shop here at FWW and is a fine bench. However, benches are tools and you get used to working on the one you always work on. So I did miss mine. That being said, my techniques were not any different.

2. I have not attempted to reset the teeth on my saws so that I would get a smaller kerf. As for the cleanness of the cut, the crosscut saw I use leaves a clean cut on the shoulders, but even if it didn't the shoulder plane would take care of that. I'm not worried about the cleanness of the cheek cuts, as the rabbet block plane will definitely take of any messiness. It's the planes that give you smooth surfaces, not the saws.

3. The are at least two contemporary makers of shoulder planes (Lie-Nielsen and Veritas). I like a medium shoulder plane. Mike likes his large one. As far as I know, only LN makes a rabbet block plane at present. Sargent, which no longer makes planes, made one but you'd have to search eBay, flea markets, etc. to find one.

4. When trimming tenons, there is a risk of ending up with a tenon that is off center. There are two ways to avoid that. Work up to layout lines, but do not go past them. Take an equal number of passes on both sides of the tenon with the rabbet block plane.

I think that gets all of the questions. If I missed one, let me know.

JLYoung,

LN does now sell a version of the Rabbet Block plane with a nicker. I've always used the version without a nicker. The nicker is actually meant to sever the fibers so that the blade doesn't cause any tearout on cross grain cuts. So, it doesn't help to keep the blade close to the shoulder. My first suggestion to solve your problem is to make sure that the blade is flush with the side of the plane that is against the shoulder. It sounds to me as if it is not, so the plane is not cutting tight into the corner, which leaves a tiny little lip. Well, with the next stroke the plane will be guided by that lip, which means a second lip, even further away from the shoulder, will be formed. That becomes worse with every swipe. Getting the blade flush to the side of the plane will solve that problem.

Best of luck.

I see there are a lot of questions for me. I'll do my best to work through them all. Here's a few answers.

1. The big rip saw has 11 tpi.

2. I use a jigsaw blade to make the cutters for my marking gauges. Look for issue 211 (out soon). There will an entire article about how I make them.

3. Always cut the mortises first. It is quite easy to make the tenon fit the mortise, but the opposite isn't easy at all.

4. You absolutely should take an equal amount off each side of the tenon when trimming them with a handplane. I try to keep track in my head. However, it helps that I have layout lines on the tenon, so I can simply trim to the line. After that I am more careful about how much I'm taking off each side.

APO,

Sorry, I just saw your question. Selection will be made very soon. I don't want to give an exact time frame so as not to disappoint if something unexpected happens.

Matt

Personally, I'm always trying to improve my speed. I love the process, but want to be more efficient. I don't like tedious, stuttering tasks. I like to get in a groove and work quickly. In other words, just because you enjoy the process doesn't mean you can work quickly and efficiently.

Matt

RoomeAL,

The dust up hasn't occurred yet, so there's no video yet. The live feed is this afternoon. The video will be up some time after that.

Matt

Dan,

You're right that one machine and one setup isn't necessary for accuracy, but it sure is efficient and easy to do it that way. That's why I referred to it as the best way. There are, of course, other very good ways to do it.

knoxmtn,

I looked for a bearing that would give me a 1/8 in. deep groove but was unable to find one. I'm sure they sell them online, but making the fence was less aggravation than hunting down, ordering, and waiting for the bearing to arrive. The bearing that came with the bit ends up cutting a very deep groove. Also, I don't fancy using the bit with the entire diameter exposed, so I still would have buried it in a fence.

Patrick,

You've been holding out on me. I didn't see all of that stuff. I applaud the tools you bought at my recommendation. And that flat back tape measure is fantastic. I will be getting one myself.

Matt K.

ADD2,

I'd be surprised if you spent $700+ rehabbing your saw, even with a new fence. Unless I am missing something in your comment, the most expensive part will be the fence. I guess you could spend in the neighborhood of $400 for a new fence, but there are great after market fences that would cost much less. The other parts shouldn't cost too much.

I should note that you won't be able to find a true riving knife for the saw. The way that the motor and trunnion work prohibits it.

I can't make a decision for you, but I can say that a 1950s era unisaw is one heck of a machine. I would be glad to have one.

Woodjoy,

I hope you see this. I didn't know you has asked a question until today, the day before Thanksgiving. I can't wait until there is automatic notification for comments. To answer your question, if you look in the one picture that has a saw, the sawhook is the wooden device that the saw is cutting through and that the workpiece is resting on. Basically, it is a wood surface (plywood in this case) that has a fence to press the workpiece against, and on its underside is another piece of wood that works to hook the thing against the bench when I push on it to hold the workpiece in place. It is a guide for sawing roughly to 90 degrees (or 45).

saschafer,

You're right that you'll need to practice in order to get at hand cut dovetails. But why do you need to do them at all? I know of many successful furniture makers who are great designers and technicians that never use them. Modern woodworkers, especially hobbyists, seem to have made a fetish out of dovetails. And that's not good.

One of the problems I have with the overwhelming emphasis on dovetails is that it limits design. I'm not necessarily thinking of drawers here, but of carcass construction. When I gave up dovetails as the be all and end all for carcass construction, I realized that I could start to do cool overhands on the top and bottom and that I could make much more curvaceous cabinets. That was a good.

Matt

Bill,

Thanks for the comment. I have to say that I didn't even think of how stressful it can be to cut dovetails. All the more reason to avoid them until you've mastered them. There are many options, just as beautiful and strong, that won't stress you out as much.

Matt

JLYoung,

You should be able to find a manual at www.owwm.com. Look under "Machine Info" and then under "Publication Reprints." I found a manual for my jointer and my tablesaw there.

- Matt

RedF

We're still accepting submisssions. So send them in.

Here's a few notes on heat treating.

I used a MAPP gas torch (the kind you can buy at a home center) to harden the blade. Focus the flame about 1 inch up from the bevel and let the heat slowly travel toward it. The bevel is very easy to burn. When the business end of the blade is cherry red/bright orange quench it in some vegetable oil. I put about a quart in a small paint can. If it were to catch fire I could quickly put the lid on and cut off the oxygen. I wiped of the oil and then put the blades in the oven for 30 minutes. It was pre-heated to 460 degrees. I then took them out and let them cool down in the air. They take a great edge and cut wonderfully. I should note that I am no expert on heat treating. I have no idea how hard the blades are. I just know that they cut well and retain a good edge.

Thanks for all the comments everyone. I've been out with the flu and forgot the check this blog for comments. For those of you hoping to see these as an article one day, I think the chances are good. If they don't end up in the magazine, I'll do something more detailed on the web. So, I'll hold off on giving dimensions and the like right now. However, if you search our website, you'll find a recent article by David Finck that gives the basics on the Krenov method of plane making.

I apologize for not giving all of the nitty-gritty details. This blog post was never meant to be a how-to. It is really just a peak at something I did. I should also note, that I sometimes forgot that most people aren't like me in that I'm more than willing to just go out in the shop and give something a try. I didn't have any instructions on how to make these. I knew the Krenov method and found the bed angle in a book on plane making that I own. Everything else was figured out by making prototypes. That's not a criticism of those looking for detailed instructions. It's just an explanation of why I didn't think to include that info in this blog.

Also, as I explained in the blog, I made these planes to satisfy my particular way of making drawers and trays. So I thought the dimensions (location and depth of groove) were a bit to particular to be of use to others.

Re: irons that are already heat treated. Lee Valley sells replacement blades for their plow plane. I've not seen them in person, but there is a chance they would work for a plane like this. You'd have to buy one to try.

Jon,

If by working irons you mean one that are already heat treated, then I don't think I can help. I don't know of anywhere to buy heat treated irons that would work, that's why I bought the annealed iron blanks from Lie-Nielsen. Don't be discouraged by the prospect of heat treating irons. I used a MAPP gas torch to harden mine and then tempered them in the kitchen oven. It's a lot easier than you might think.

flairwoodworks:

A piston fit drawer shouldn't be any less durable than one that fits less well. However, you should think carefully about the appeal of a piece a furniture whose main attraction is a air pressure gauge. It might be too much of a novelty.

An article is possible, but it would be focused on how to make and use them. What would you find interesting or useful about the history of grooving planes? In other words, what would you want to know? A history of molding planes in general, I'm afraid, would need an article (or book) all its own.

philh,

The planes are 1 in. thick, 5 1/2 in. long, and 2 1/2 in. tall (on the side with the fence). The bed angle is 57 degrees and the front of the throat is 67 degrees.

To make the skate/bed, I started out by planing it as thick as the iron is wide. After I had the plane glued together, I used a shoulder plane to take a few thousandths off one side. I left it as is on the side facing the fence. That way the plane would tend to pull itself against the workpiece. After I put some finish on (one very thin coat of Tried & True danish oil) there was no binding at all.

Hope that helps.

Philh,

It's possible that these could end up in a future issue, but what in particular would you like to know about them?

Matt

Smith5963

I, of course, chose the word impeccable. I suppose we could argue about whether or not the denotation of the word applies here (I think it does). But I believe the connotation does. In other words, I think that how the word is used by average, but intelligent, people would cover how I've used it. Dictionaries, while helpful, are neither exhaustive nor authoritative.

As for who thinks Hank's sense of design is that good. Well, I do, so do many others here at the magazine, and so too have hundreds, if not thousands, of satisfied customers thought it excellent. But, more importantly, his design abilities have been demonstrated across a broad range of fields, from furniture making, to landscape design, to the design of tunnels and interiors. Regardless of the object, Hank does a nice job.

You might not like his work. So be it. Don't participate.

Finally, I try not to find my humor in others. I'm always worried that while I'm looking at others and laughing, I fail to notice something even more laughable about myself.

I really like this piece. Great veneer work. -Matt K.

I got the box glued together yesterday and made an ebony pull for the lid. I got a few minutes in the shop today and cleaned up another stud for the trays I'm making for the inside. Great news: beautiful, tight grained quarter-sawn wood underneath. I'll post a picture in my next blog.

Wow, this is a big response. I'll say that I would love to furnish my shop with older stationary machines that I rehabed. I would even replace the brushes on a hand held power tool. But I don't think I would rebuild batteries. The technology moves so quickly that by the time a battery finally dies, the new version of the tool cheaper and better. I just bought a small 12 volt Litium Ion powered drill and impact driver that run marathons around my other cordless drills (which are bigger and heavier).

Ted,

I always appreciate the truly charitable assumptions readers and posters make about my intelligence and their efforts to educate me. But I should point out that it was just a mistake, a momentary lapse, and not a error due to complete ignorance of a rule of grammar.

Matt

Floss,

I don't really take is seriously, at least not the part about me being a dandy. But the person who wrote the letter doesn't seem to be joking. What I do take seriously is the implication that woodworkers all look (or should look) a particular way, and the claim that the cover is some kind of false image of woodworking.

cocopuffed,

I'm not sure what you mean by "pure art," but I suspect that you have in mind that furniture must be functional and that this bookcase isn't functional. Perhaps you are even thinking that furniture should only be functional (that is, it can't make philosophic, political, or any other type of statement).

Philosophically, I think you're wrong on both points. But let me point out that this bookshelf is actually holding books, and could easily be used as a bookshelf in a house. I could certainly see myself using this bookself in my house as a bookshelf. Not only would I get to store some books, but I would also get to express a particular position on the decline of the printed (on paper) word.

Matt K.

2straightlines:

Why would someone burn kauri? It costs at least $25 per bd. ft.!

Bill,

I don't think we ever met. That's too bad. I'm glad you got to see this blog, though.

Matt

Saschafer,

Are you still having trouble? Everything works fine for me.

Matt

Papabear:

All that is needed is two cleats attached to underside of the top. I would put one just to the inside of each of the top members on the trestles. They should be snug up against those cross members. I’ll do that one day, but in all honesty, my top doesn’t move, and there’s nothing holding it in place.--MK

I'm making a bow front wall cabinet from Madrone. The Cuban mahogany is for a bank of drawer fronts. The deep brown of the mahogany should compliment the deep pinkish red of the Madrone (and there's a nice brown streak separating the sap and heart wood).

Bill,
Gina saw your post before me, but she gave you my response. With a shorter bench I would recommend securing the top (it won't be as heavy).

Best of luck. Matt

Thanks for the link Panch. I forwarded it to the other editors. We all enjoyed it. It is truly amazing work. It's guys like Jansen that help me remember that I'm really not all that smart.

Jstory,

If I remember correctly, there are around 90 bd. ft. in the bench. But don't go by the number of board feet if you build the bench. Rather, think about the size boards you'll need for the parts. For example, 1 8/4 board that's 8 ft. long and 6 in. wide would give you two of the boards needed to make the top. Check for knots and other defects. If they're bad, you don't want that board, unless you can cut around it for trestle parts. Look for a really good board for the apron.

Good luck.

Thanks for the compliments folks. I'm glad ya'll liked it. I had a great time making the video and bench.

As for the jointer, all I know is that it is a Hammer and has a 12 in. capacity. It actually belongs to Anatole Burkin. However, I believe it is the same model Hammer jointer/planer that was reviewed in FWW #190. Rollie Johnson (make that Roland) did the review. Search the archives, using "jointer" and "planer" and the article is the 7th link down.

Matt

Sorry I haven't checked this blog for any posts recently. I wish we would get a notification when there's a comment.

Let me answer your questions. I bought the bench bolts from Lee Valley, but Highland Hardware has bolts and nuts that are the same size.

As for how the bench is attached. You didn't miss anything. There is nothing about how the top is attached. In all honesty, the top is heavy enough to just sit on the legs and not move. About the only thing that would move it is pulling the apron away from the legs. However, a simple way to keep the top in place is this. Attach two battens to the underside of the top. One just to the inside of each upper member of the trestles. Use three screws on each, but make sure that you make slots in the battens, not holes, for the outer two. That will allow the top to move with the seasons. And it will expand and contract, especially if your shop is unheated or lacks central air.

Sorry folks, the new series starts on 2/23 not 2/13. Clearly, I was suffering from a late afternoon mental recession when I wrote the date.

Biohaz1906:

I appreciate your concern, but you're wrong. Fine Woodworking is about educating its readers about woodworking: the best materials, the best tools, and the best techniques. One way to educate is to show what shouldn't be done. This video does precisely that, and, let me add, it is clear that neither I nor anyone else thinks that what the guy is doing is safe or good practice. In fact, it is abundantly clearly that we all disapprove.

It is highly likely that someone has read this blog, looked at the video, and said, "Oh, I shouldn't use the fence when crosscutting. I didn't know that."

Keep in mind that in order to learn how to do something, you often need to be told or shown how not to do it.

Hey folks,

Thanks for all the comments so far. You've got some great ideas on "out of the ordinary" ways to get lumber, and I'm thinking that we'll talk about that too. But I'd love to hear about specific woods that you've used to make furniture. It seems that hardwoods grown locally can be had for a steal, and that many of them (aspen, red elm, alder, sassafras, to name a few) make for beautiful furniture. So let me know about those specific woods too.

Efficiency does drive me mad, but I did mention it. Check the third to last paragraph. What I need is a solar powered router.

That's for sure. I've had some leg parts from an old table my mother-in-law gave me. One made a nice little box, but I saw them sitting in my office and thought, "turn 'em." So I did. Now I'll be looking over the scraps and throwing them into two piles: wood stove and turning.

Molson0620,

I'm not sure how serious you are, but I can assure you that although I might not be a Maine native, I am by no means fancy. I too need tools at an affordable price. And I didn't buy the plane and gauge to have them sit on a shelf somewhere. They'll be put to very good use in my shop. (And to make sure it's clear, I'll say that I write this with a smile and friendly voice.)

But I wouldn't worry too much if I were you. The NE is a great place to look for used tools. If you'd like the names of a few other places in ME and the nearby area, let me know and we can exchange emails.

Robin,

Now that's an odd coincidence, because my plane gauge and No. 7 we a bit of a package deal too. As for eBay, I've bought two planes there, but now prefer. Glad my random little post offered you some useful information.

Matt

My cabinet isn't old enough to date yet.