This technique is essentially using the saw as a router. Which leads me the question: Would it be safer if adapted for and performed on a router table?
I have to admit that I've used handheld circular saws as "rotary rasps" at times, though that was trimming back the entire end of the board rather than trying to take out only a shoulder.
This does feel like something which would be safer in a sled with a stop than on the bare table, to keep the hands clear of the blade. The sled could be equipped with featherboard (or even solid backing block) to help keep the piece flat, and the edge of the sled could be marked with appropriate-size indexes to be gauged against a reference point on the table so each pass takes off the same (known) amount.
If that seems like a reasonable compromise, you can consider this a "Methods Of Work" submission.
On the plus side, this can be retrofit in the field, doesn't require redesigning the trunion, and doesn't require a separate brake unit for dado sets. And, yes, it doesn't risk killing the blade. And, yes, it can be attached to a cheap-a$$ jobsite saw.
On the minus side, it isn't as fast to respond, and it works ONLY when the guard is in place -- which means it's unusable for many of the jigs or tenioning cuts or similar. So it strikes me as potentially being much, MUCH more effective in that jobsite situation than in the shop.
And even at the jobsite, I'm a bit skeptical. The guys who handled my renovation ran their saw minus guard for cuts that needed the open access to the blade... and for most cuts that didn't need that access, which means convincing them to use the guard is likely to be an uphill slog.
Which brings me back to the point others have made, that the folks who hurt themselves are most often the people who have been using the tool long enough to have started cheating on existing safety practices, and then cheating on their cheats... and who are under time pressure and so are more likely to work past the point of fatigue. That's certainly not all the accidents -- a friend of mine was indecently lucky and split his fingertip to, but not through, the bone when he tried to finish a cut without a push stick -- but there is some evidence that the risks are highest to beginners who don't know better and experts who should know better.
My table saw right now is a 50-year-old Sears 8" benchtop model (belt driven, outboard motor). No guard; no sign it ever had a guard. Wide throat; no way I can see to fit it for a zero-clearance plate. I'm frankly a bit afraid to use it without a crosscut sled, and I suspect the best long-term answer would be to re-purpose it as a disk sander.
So I'm pondering saw shopping, and _still_ trying to decide between cheap-and-cheerful (leaving more money for wood and for other tools) or going upscale a bit. And while I think I'm probably paranoid enough to use a saw fairly safely, I'm willing to pay a slight surcharge for something like SawStop, Just In Case. The best health insurance is the kind which keeps you from needing health insurance in the first place.
Unfortunately, the next thing my own shop really needs -- outside of a cleanup and organizing pass, which may mean a wall-mounted wood rack would be a good gift -- is a table saw. Which probably means a Sawstop.
Actually, the thing my shop _desperately_ needs is help figuring out how to arrange the tools. I've got a roughly 18'x18' space, which ought to be plenty -- but it's got a pair of Lally columns helping to support the main beam along the center line, and I haven't yet figured out how to reasonably arrange a table-saw workflow around them. I _really_ want to see an article on workshop layout which covers how to deal with this sort of complication, rather than assuming we either have an open space or the ability to trundle tools outside when we need elbow room.
(Yes, I know that theoretically I could get an engineer in and have that beam and its endpoint supports reinforced. But at that point, I think I'd instead have to settle for projects and/or tools and/or construction techniques that could fit the space.)
I suppose hand tools, miter saw and router and, perhaps, a panel saw with router plate (and fence?) could cover most of what a table saw is used for and would fit this space better, but... There's got to be a Best Answer for this situation, and I'm just not experienced enough to know what it is.
If the circuit boards were surplussed before being used, they may not yet have been "tinned" with solder, which would remove the lead issue. Also, the industry has been moving to lead-free solder as they've increasingly held to account for environmental impact. And unless you are breathing it or dissolving it, solder is pretty stable -- I wouldn't worry unless solder was coming in direct contact with food or kids could put it in their mouths.
Valid concern, to be looked at... in context.
And behind me, those lovely shiplap wallboards were produced with this very plane.
... what do you mean, "you just planed the workbench"?
... and next month, we're going to teach you how to make this nifty storage box for your planes.
Great picture of the plane and the bench hook. Now, if we could just see the workpiece...
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