JustAbout

A cut list should be digital content for paid members. It is very useful for getting a sense of material requirements and how to cut things, especially sheet goods, but I have found cut lists rarely work out perfectly. For me, sequence of cut makes a significant impact on cut lists, and no generated list ever gets cut sequence correct, even when I generate them with my own brain.

A short list of required materials, as described in posts by other members, would be helpful in print, and would take a very small amount of space.

My son and I are currently making a relatively large Chifforobe-style dresser that he will take with him. It is of my own design, and I generated cut lists but did not take them to the store, just a list of needed items. While at the store, we found a unique piece of 5/4 lumber that was perfect to cut four corner posts (a slight design change). All of the cut lists went out the window after that, and I regenerated them when we got home. We are using straight-grain oak, so grain figure is relatively easy to look for at the store. I would have taken the cut list if I wanted to book match, or get interesting grain patterns on the drawer fronts.

I do measure from the build to get accurate sizes, but I find that they should not vary from the plan more than 1/64". I have learned it is (generally) better to fix or replace miscuts than to try to adjust everything else to fit. If my cuts are not accurate, the craftsman in me should want to learn why. Quality measuring tools (square, micrometer, rule) have made my life far more enjoyable.

Here are rules I follow before I build each project:

Adjust the table saw. Accurate cuts prevent disasters. Buy or build accurate table saw extension tables. Use wax on sliding parts. Replace a defective fence or miter gage. Clean everything and grease appropriately.

Adjust (or build a new) flat goods cutting system. Use wax on sliding parts.

Adjust the jointer. Make certain that both tables are perfectly flat to each other and that all three blades project properly, etc. Adjust the fence perfectly square with the table.

Adjust the planer and outfeed and infeed tables. Mike the wood after jointing and planing. It should be consistent. If it isn't figure out what you are doing wrong.

I have the above suggestions on a small card I hang from the table saw. I always read them and check them before I start a project. I am amazed how often expensive equipment needs a little loving help to work perfectly. When it gets it, my projects go a lot closer to plan. And to be honest, I can check every thing in less than 15 minutes. Adjustments take longer, but much less time than fighting inaccurate cuts.

I have followed Garrett Hack's methods here since mounting my first butt hinge set over 50 years ago. I have, however, learned a few other tricks, born out of absolute frustration.

What isn't mentioned here, but is key to correct hinge installation, is that when mounted, all hinge pins must be perfectly aligned on a single imaginary line drawn through the centers of their pivots. If they are even slightly out of line from each other, hinge problems will eventually occur. Pins will work their way out, as if by magic. Fine metal dust will appear somewhere. This problem is magnified when the door needs 3, 4, or 5 hinges, and with seasonal humidity changes.

I am not especially exacting, as my handle indicates, but I do care about how my doors swing.

I have found many errors of this type on other craftsmen's work. I've learned to look for this just like I look at the quality of joinery when I study other's work. It is a silent testimony that none of us are perfect.

Without regard to the quality of the hinge, here is the method I use to solve this problem. I have numerous convenient lengths of straight aluminum (and steel) bar stock, bought from hardware stores, in which I have drilled and tapped holes at the correct position to hold the hinges in perfect alignment. Extruded angle works too. I use flat-head machine screws to hold the hinges to the bar. This costs almost nothing compared to the cost of the cabinet, by the way.

When I frist started this method, and from time to time even now, I use a second bar on the opposite leaf to make certain the mechanical action is perfect (through the entire swing) before I get near the doors. I also used 2 screws per hinge, but now I sometimes use 1 screw and a tiny piece of double-stick tape to save time.

With only one bar attached, the hinges can be held to the door and knife cuts used to strike the positions for the mortises. I only use a gage for mortise depth. Check the mortise position and depth with the hinge folded in different positions. This is where hinge quality makes a difference, but even the very expensive ones can show variations.

Using this method provides other valuable information, such as the center hinge in a 3 set needing a variation of the mortise depth. It is also possible to see very slight variations in the straightness of the door. Differences significantly smaller than 1/28 inch can cause significant problems. Sometimes one or more hinges in a set may need the mortise slightly deeper on one side than the other. I mortise for the hinge to be slightly proud and then sneak up on the perfect depth with a sharp chisel.

This method has, for me, eliminated Garrett's shimming steps; I haven't shimmed hinges for many years.

Once the hinges are mounted on the door and the mechanical action is perfect, the bar comes off, and the door performs the same function as the bar when striking the frame for mortises.

This may seem like extra work, but it makes hanging doors so much simpler and faster, I can't imagine doing it any other way. And even cheap hinges will work great, although they don't always look great.

And one other difference I have with Garrett (who, by the way, is obviously a vastly superior craftsman than I, and one for which I have great respect), I use VIX bits to drill the screw holes. Every other method I tried led to mispositioned screws and resulting problems. Vix bits eliminate grain misdirection. These bits also eliminate parallax errors caused by my less than perfect eyes. I also liberally apply beeswax to all brass screws before assembly.

Other errors made by craftsmen are (1) they often use too few hinges; (2) Or they try to straighten a slightly bowed door with hinges. We spend a lot of time and money doing this, why not do it correctly? I remember vividly the first time I "disassembled" a tall paneled cabinet door that I noticed was slightly bowed after assembly and finishing. I kept the panel, as it was fine, but cut new styles and rails. I look at this door almost every day, and open it almost as often, and the satisfaction of having it right far exceeds the pang in my heart as I destroyed the bad one.

Toward more fun in the shop...

Who is the target audience?

1. Folks who own a shop full of tools and already do some amazing stuff?
2. Folks who own a shop full of tools and need someone to give them a kick?
3. Folks who want to live vicariously?
4. Folks who want to get an idea of what fru-fru to put into their house and why something might be cool and wow their guests?

or

5. Folks we all want to invite and encourage in this wonderful activity?

If it tries to be for everyone it will be a rather boring failure.

I remember back in the '50s '60s and '70s, in fly over country, when it was hard to find a quality chisel or hand saw, forget hand planes larger than a block, and I was the only person I knew who loved working with wood to make useful things. When Fred Gross, Manager, Educational Department for Stanley Tools edited "How To Work With Tools and Wood" (1952) (I still have my 35 cent pocket book edition that I bought in Toronto in '62 on a summer vacation with my family.) It was that book that was my invitation to this wonderful obsession.

Luckily I had older brothers who, obsessed with knives, taught me how to sharpen a knife. I was able to transfer this knowledge to sharpening tools, and that is the most fundamental skill necessary to enjoy this craft. I practiced it outside, on the kitchen table when mother wasn't there, and in the attic when it was 100 degrees outside.

I saved "Green Stamps" and "Yellow Stamps" to get my first power tools: a jig saw and a belt sander.

Everyone thought I was nuts-- and stupid--for wanting to work with wood.

My point is this--if a new show is designed to attract me as a viewer, it probably won't do what we need, and that is attract others into the endeavor. My children, now grown, know about workshops, tools, safety, and all sorts of techniques. They built things--with and without me--and are rather accomplished at turning. Unfortunately, they think you need a complete shop (or at least a lathe, accessories, a band saw, etc.) to be able to do anything, so off on their own they do nothing.

If Mr. MacDonald can inspire them and their generation, then it is great with me. I wish him much success--even if it is another show from Boston. :)

I'm proud that I learn from mistakes--particularly if they were made by someone else. What burns me is when I repeat a mistake that I learned from 40 year ago. Now that is frustrating. Another frustrating thing is that some of the tools that I found impossible -- a specific dovetail jig and specific belt sander comes to mind -- worked great for the guy I gave them to. I never got satisfactory results from that jig, although it wasn't for lack of trying. I kept notes about each trial and gave the notes with the jig. Later, I visited with my friend and saw all sorts of dovetailed boxes. While I admired his handiwork, he commented how much he appreciated the jig and how great it was. Surprised, I asked, "Were my notes any help?" "I suppose," He said, "I read them and then went out and bought the best bit I could find before I tried to do anything with the jig. I never had any problems." It never dawned on me that the bit--or the router for that matter--might have been the problem. That lesson reminded me to look at the big picture and to avoid unnecessary compromises.

A lot of very fine comments. Here are a few thoughts:

1. Use the same brain that can figure out how to plane a board with the grain to see if the board your going to cut might have issues. E.g. boards with nots often have issues, but there are a lot of other indicators. If you are working with an unfamiliar species, take extra care.

2. Wear a back brace belt made of multiple layers of ballistic nylon about your waist. As I said in a previous post, one of these saved me from a major injury to my belly from a "small" kickback. They are the least problematic safety gear and cheap.

3. Always use the correct, very sharp blade. This was a hard lesson for me, and I suspect for other woodworkers. We want to put a single multi-purpose blade on the table saw and leave it there--even when it starts to dull. Pay the money for multiple blades. Know what they are used for and change them out. Make a storage case to hold them and keep them clean and sharp. Convince yourself that changing blades is one of the most enjoyable things you do in the shop: great blades are beautiful things and deserve regular inspection and use. Never use an "almost sharp" blade. After all, the blade is the real tool. The table, fence, motor, trunions, etc. are just there to make using it a whole lot more fun.

4. Adjust for every cut. I know this sounds crazy, and it certainly sounds like an overstatement. But think about it. Every cut deserves thought. Repetitive cuts especially. I initially convinced myself this was necessary by saying "if I move any part in this setup, I must reconsider the cut." Since making this decision, I have not found a single repetitive cut that does not have something moving. At the very minimum I move or change the board. Take the time to think about your next cut. You may not adjust the blade, fence, etc., but you must adjust the most important tool, your mind. And your mind may adjust your feet, hands, and procedures. This does not make things take longer--it way reduces do-overs and waste. And it helps keep me healthy.

And after my mind, the most dangerous tool in my shop is the router. You know, the one that has a motor that pulls almost as many amps as a small table saw and spins at about 20,000 RPM and that you hold in your hands! It is capable of alarming destruction. Why aren't there more injuries from a router than a table saw? I think it has something to do with the attitude of the woodworker.

Oh, and my most serious shop injury was from a box knife--and it was serious. Use your mind, not just your coordination.

Don't think I can add much to this debate. Since I already have a set of planes, carefully tuned and sharpened, the discussion seems just a bit remote. What has always annoyed me was that I have had to tune-up so many of my tools purchased out of the box, and old tools all needed rehabilitation. This requires many hours of effort.

Is the Wood River sole dead flat? Are the sides dead square? Will the iron stay sharp? Is the wood in the handles going to break the first time you put pressure on them? How well do they adjust?

When I get a hankering for a new tool, I hanker for the best, and LV and LN currently hold that position in my mind. I justify the cost by knowing that the little things, like a dead-flat sole and square sides make a significant difference to my joy and to the quality of my work. I would rather work with wood than with cast iron any day of the week. Sending back a tool that does not meet my specs is a great feeling.

And the folks that are willing to settle for a tool that does not measure up will probably do the same with their own work.

And that says a lot about my handle (screen name, alter-ego,...). :)