Thanks for the comments. I take being safe very seriously and always tell people to work within their own level of security. Scotty, I take it you are from the Scottish Highlands, I live in the Hudson Valley region of New York and we refer to these parts at the North Highlands. I hope to see the original Highlands some day!
Good point Butch, I usually grip a tenon, but the jaws can also expand to hold work.
You're right yxandy, with his self-assurance and determination, we'll see some of Isaac's work in the future!
Thanks, Great idea. You'll get a bit more practice hollowing and reverse chucking, too!
Thanks Bob and Loxmyth , I haven't had any problems with warpage or splits when sawing out spindle blanks, as long as the growth rings were mostly concentric and I sawed in-line with the grain. Obviously the ends may check as moisture is lost from the end grain quicker than the cross grain, but a bit of sealer or cutting the blanks a bit longer is a solution. Of course, traditional woodworkers will still use wedges, froes and axes to split out blanks, but straight grain logs should yield you some good stock when sawing with the chainsaw.
Thanks Gpan, I either rough turn to a consistent but heavy wall thickness and slowly let the blank dry(it will turn oval), then remount to finish turn, or I turn the bowl green to a final thin wall thickness and I let it dry slowly. I hope to have more posts and videos showing the process. Joe
Thanks Zombeerose, I have purchased sea urchin shells from Craft Supplies USA and the NaplesSeashell Company, and I was satisfied with both. Good Luck, Joe
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