JFink

Glastonbury, CT
contributor


Associate editor at Fine Homebuilding Magazine

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Contributions

Shaker Wall Shelf

I modeled this wall shelf after a peg rack I saw in the Shaker Workshop catalog. I omitted the pegs and scaled it to fit between two windows in my home. The edges of teh stretcher are beaded, and the...

Farmhouse Table

This farmhouse table has a 1.5" thick solid cherry top set on prefab (gasp!) legs. Finish is milk paint on the base, oil and wax on the top. Legs came from Matthew Burak's online store.

Shaker rocking chair

This chair was based on a FWW article by Ernie Conover. It was first attempt at making a chair, and the learning curve was incredibly steep. I opted for back splats rather than a taped back, and I...

Pine Wall Cupboard

This Colonial style pine wall cupboard was based on an FWW article by Mike Dunbar. The piece includes custom cornice and base moldings, floating tongue and groove back panels, awrought iron...

Cherry Jewelry Box

This is a cherry box I designed on the fly and completed in one afternoon. It has rounded, walnut-pegged finger joints and a recessed top with slotted walnut pull. Finish is oil and wax.

Mahogany Coffee Table

Mahogany coffee table with compound curve legs, arched aprons, and maple inlay on top. Finish is powdered pumice (to fill in grain), 3 coats of varnish, top coat of paste wax.



Recent comments


Re: Woodshop Cabinets

This is a terrific idea, thanks for sharing.

Re: adjuster for crosscut fences

This is very cool, and very elegant.

Re: Hand Drawn in SketchUp

Dave, your post reminds me that I wanted to ask whether SU is compatible with those digital "pens" some designers use in lieu of a common mouse. I suppose you would need to lift and tap the pen to start a line and that sort of thing, but it seems like it might be an intuitive way to use the system. Do you know if this is an option for this program when using a PC?

Re: Dovetailed drawers are overrated

I'm far from being "done learning", MotorT. I continue to challenge what I know and how I do it. I can and have cut dovetails by hand, too. I just prefer to use a jig because it's quick, clean, and most of the time I'm not too concerned with not being able to create super-thin dovetail pins.

I'm simply saying that if the argument is about anything other than aesthetics--the true craftsmanship of woodworking for instance--then why not cut tenons, box/finger joints, rabbets, and dados by hand as well? Why not throw away the router and invest in molding planes? Why not sell the jointer and buy a set of jointing planes?

I just think it seems hypocritical to draw a line in the sand about dovetails, but then defend power tools and other jigs as perfectly acceptable "efficient" options.

Re: Dovetailed drawers are overrated

I realize this is a slight departure from the main point of your post, but unless we are talking strictly about aesthetics, I see NO reason to pass up on the use of a dovetail jig. I'm a carpenter by trade, but consider myself to be at least a recreational woodworker. For me, beginning a jewelry box or some other casework with a nice clean set of jig-routed dovetails (I use the Keller system) gives me the confidence to try my hand at other more daunting upgrades on the project - wooden hinges, spinners, or maybe an inlay. Hand-cutting the dovetails right off the bat often leaves me feeling frustrated with my skill level, killing the momentum of the project.

Frankly, I think the lofty admiration of the almighty hand-cut dovetail is perpetuated by woodworking elitists, and it's added to drawers not for the strength it offers customers, but for the self-congratulatory pat on the back of the guy who spent umpteen hours hunched over the bench.

If purity and vanity are the the name of the game, then I suppose I should sell my jointer, thickness planer, and cordless drill, too?

See you at lunch, buddy :)
Your pal from Fine Homebuilding,
Justin