FineWoodworkingEditors

sawdust maker: We are lucky to have access to better machinery, better techniques, and better working conditions. It's worth reflecting on from time-to-time.
Best,
Ed

Thanks for the heads-up. I've fixed the links.

Brian, you've gotta share a crazy client story to enter! And even if you don't "sell" your own work, we're using "client" in the broadest sense... could be a spouse, neigbhor, child, etc.

Hi cpweirup, Apologies for the inconvenience. The book was unavailable earlier today due to some technical problems due to the relaunch of our online store.

It's available again now:
http://www.tauntonstore.com/sketchup-guide-for-woodworkers-tim-killen-ebook-077846.html

Sorry again for the inconvenience, Gina, FineWoodworking.com

Hi Folks, Sorry, technical issue. This book now available again through our store. Apologies, it was unavailable earlier today. Sorry for the inconvenience.

http://www.tauntonstore.com/sketchup-guide-for-woodworkers-tim-killen-ebook-077846.html

Don, thanks for your feedback though Rob Bois is just sharing one person’s opinion based on his vantage point. Do you sell your work? If so, how do you set your prices? Thanks for any insight you can provide. Gina

Don, Thanks for weighing in with your opinion and helping to to further the discussion. I'm sure that many would agree with you. -Gina

Hi Tommy, Thanks for weighing in.

Do you know if full episodes will be broadcast online? I'm sure that people outside the U.S. will want to tune in too (and those who can't get it on their local station). In an interview with Matt Kenney, I think that Laurie Donnelly mentioned this would be possible.

Good luck with the show, Gina, FW

PapaDisco: First of all - nice screen name. Regarding your comment: the problem I've found with positioning to the right of the fence lay in the direction you'd then be applying your force. The user would be inadvertantly applying force towards the blade - as opposed to towards the fence. That would be another kickback-inducing situation in my humble opinion.

That said, I think your comment about the arm nearly crossing over the blade is a very good one. In fact, it's something that I've often wondered about myself. Many times when ripping a board, you can't help it. That's why I've always grabbed the table with my left hand during those situations, to steady myself perfectly. I find that I have much better control when I grip the tabel just to my left. Of course, I always check that I'm using a sturdy saw that isn't going to be jostled at all by my grip.

All-in-all - great comments, folks. The ring one has been debated at lenght- there are two very well-entrenched schools of thought and both make good points. Ultimately, that's up to you.

Thanks for playing guys - and for sharing your own experiences and points here. Hopefeully, these comments will prevent serious injuries for some green woodworker out there.

Best,

Ed

Bruce, you should post pictures of your stool in the gallery. We'd love to see it. -Gina

Nice catch, rgdaniel - and thank you! Even the best of us make typos. LOL.

Cheers,

-Ed

Hi snyderwood -

No, a thumbs-up doesn't count. You need to log your vote in the poll embedded above all the little thumbnails in this post. Just click on the title of the piece you wish to vote for, then hit the "vote" button.

Cheers,

-Ed

Hi rcooper,

We're keeping this as open as possible: We want to share information with a wide variety of people including:
-Someone starting out with no tools at all
-Someone who might have access to a shop but needs to pointers on using the tools
-Someone like a trim carpenter who's familiar with a variety of tools but needs information on furniture making and wood joints

Do you have information that could help someone who falls into one of these groups?

Set the blade height to about 3/8 in. above the workpiece. That happy medium will keep the blade cutting properly while not exposing too much of it to your precious fingers. As for offsetting the fence, don't do it. You are making the board travel in a crooked path over the blade, which is dangerous in my opinion. (Having a short fence that stops behind the blade, as the Europeans do, is a whole other story, and is fine.) Instead, be sure to keep the splitter in place. That will take care of kickback in almost all cases. Better yet, buy a saw with a riving knife. They hardly ever to come off the saw, even for angled cuts and cuts that don't go all the way through a board.
--Asa Christiana, editor, FWW

Floater: Here's a tip on our site that describes how to modify your tablesaw on/off switch with a paddle:

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Workshop/WorkshopArticle.aspx?id=3221

Sorry to hear about the trouble. It looks like you did get one entry in:
http://finewoodworking.taunton.com/item/10919/jewelry-armoire

If you have additional questions/concerns, please email information about your situation to fw-web AT taunton.com

Beautiful Mike!

Dear Piper,

This isn't a box! Can you delete the entry from the box challenge gallery and repost in the regular gallery:
http://finewoodworking.taunton.com/gallery

Thanks,

Gina
FineWoodworking.com

MokusakuSensei: I assume this is like the Cricket Table project that Gochnour wrote about in the magazine:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ProjectsAndDesign/ProjectsAndDesignPDF.aspx?id=31062

Fantastic. Do you have any more pictures of this? Gina
FineWoodworking.com

Hi Dave:

That is mighty kind of you. We'll send you an email with the contact information so you can follow up directly.

Let us know how things turn out so we can feature a positive follow up in our blog!

Kind regards, FW editors

Hi Ohara! I hate to admit it but your post exposed a bug in our photo software. Because you're images were square, our system failed to create the small versions that are used for the thumbnails. A fix for this is going out soon but could I trouble you to upload new images for those that don't appear, making sure the dimensions are anything but exactly square. Thanks, Matt Berger, Fine Woodworking