AZChip

I have never used a dado set for tenons. I have tried a tennoning jig but I always come back to my table saw. It is much faster, more versatile and more accurate. I make the mortises on a router table with a long fence for creating stops, before starting the tenon.

First, I define the length of the tenon by cutting a kerf slightly deeper than the intended dimension of the tenon on both faces and both edges using the fence as a stop and a miter gage to keep the piece square. If the tenon is to be off-center, adjust the depth of this cut accordingly.

Always using the outside face against the fence as a reference, I define the position of the outside of the tenon. Use a zero clearance throat plate when you make these cuts. If the piece is long and/or heavy, a vertical plywood fence extension will keep it vertical. If it is enormous, you can use a band saw following these same principles.

With the mortised mate-piece handy, and still using the outside face of the piece as the reference, cut the inside of the tenon until it fits to your satisfaction. This works well even if your tennoned pieces are not the same thickness.

Lastly I cut the length of the tenon to fit the mortise in the same way. Sometimes I use the band saw or a hand saw for this.

You now have the option of rounding the ends of the tenons to fit the mortise or squaring the ends of the mortise to fit the tenon if you want a "locked-in" fit. I usually just cut the tenons short and let the cheeks of the tenon carry the strength of the joint.

Corded tools break down from a few common faults. Carbon brushes are designed to wear out and are easily replaced. You can even modify brushes from another tool to fit. If allowed to arc for too long before replacement it can damage the armature, which can be renewed with a piece of fine sandpaper on a stick. Touch it while running to clean the copper then clean the grooves with an exact-o knife.

Switches are the next to go. First, try to blow them out with compressed air before you dis-assemble them, (a can of contact cleaner is sometimes helpful). There are a lot of tiny parts inside that are spring loaded and will shoot out into the nearest pile of sawdust. Reversable variable speed drills are the most problematic. Their switches are often designed for that specific model and are expensive. If one speed and forward only is acceptable, see the following paragraph.

Sanders are easier. Hardwire the switch to "on" and plug into a switched box made from a steel electrical box with a steel faceplate. I have several of these, one has a momentary switch as well as a "push-on push-off" switch. I use one with a momentary switch for my drill press which didn't come with a switch. All these parts are at your local hardware store.

Bearings are the next to go. Take them out and the numbers on them are universal. Go to a local bearing store and they will be in stock for around $5. No need to order them from the factory. Replace them all and save them for future use. Sometimes the sealed ones are just gummed up. Try a little WD40 in an emergency but plan to replace them soon.

I once had a table saw that was made from a salvaged Craftsman 10". The thin sheet metal box made the bevel feature unreliable, so I built a new pedestal from 1" MDF and locked the blade at 90 degrees, leaving only the height adjustment feature (I didn't like the right-tilt arbor anyway). A 2hp motor added power but the single belt pulley tensioned by the weight of the motor was inadequate, so a double belt pulley was added and a couple of heavy weight bungee cords added grip to the belts.

I have a 20 year old Porter/Cable #503 belt sander that is waiting on a new worm gear. I will continue to repair it until there are no longer parts available (perhaps I should have ordered a couple extra). The power and balance of this machine is unmatched. I'm looking to buy another. A model 504 will work as well. They look cool too, like little locomotives.