2morweeks

I'm not sure if this is where my observation of "Tim Albers--Tool Test: Dovetail Jigs" belongs or not, as your organization of letters to the editor does not jive with what I'm used to.

In his article he tested the Akeda 16" dovetail jig stating if Akeda made a 24" they would be as good or better than the Leigh.

Akeda does make a 24" jig, and has for some time. I currently own one. I own one because I've used the Leigh and found that in no way did it come close to the Akeda in comparison. I spent a lot of time and money finding the best jig on the market, and found the Akeda superior to anything currently out there.

Just another observation from someone who makes a living from the use of these jigs, as opposed to someone who tests them for a living, and doesn't do his homework.

I agree with "rupps", I'm surprised you would drill the holes after routing the cove, for tearout. I also think you would get better results on the right and left front sides if you used a edge or disc sander ( again less tearout on the end grain ) for a much smoother and consistent finish.

I think the key words here are very simply "FINE FURNITURE". If MDF is used...it is not fine furniture. And you might as well go down to Walmart and buy what you're building if your time is worth anything, if you are going to build furniture with MDF.

It does have a place in the construction industry however. I haven't found anything that works better for countertops if you're going to use a laminate.

But as far as fine furniture goes...MDF does not apply, and cannot be used in the same sentence when you're talking about what fine furniture is constructed with.

I think the key words here are very simply "FINE FURNITURE". If MDF is used...it is not fine furniture. And you might as well go down to Walmart and buy what you're building if your time is worth anything, if you are going to build furniture with MDF.

It does have a place in the construction industry however. I haven't found anything that works better for countertops if you're going to use a laminate.

But as far as fine furniture goes...MDF does not apply, and cannot be used in the same sentence when you're talking about what fine furniture is constructed with.

We were actually taught this method way back when I was in Jr. High Woodshop, and I still use it today...42 years later. The only thing I do different (as we were taught) is use the two main dado blades. They are ground flatter than regular saw blades, and are a little stouter for this type of pressure against them. My set is 8 inch, about 20 years old, and has completed this process of making tenons many, many times.

I guess you have to make the decision of whether or not to put it in your book, but I have no problem showing the younger generation this procedure. This is no more unsafe than most any other procedure on the table saw. It's kind of the same as with guns.

After twenty five years of living with an inferior kitchen, we have decided it's time to remodel. Although I've built many cabinets, I've yet to tackle an entire kitchen. Please put my name in the hat for these books as well.

Oh yeah, this is my better side, don't you think?