Hinge Mortises on the Tablesaw
Simple Cabinetry with Pocket Hole Joinery
Smoothing Plane Tips and Techniques
How to Sharpen a Spokeshave
Capture More Dust from Your Router Table
Drawbore Your Mortise-and-Tenon Joinery
Workbench Tool Storage Solutions
Simple Tape Trick for Tight Fitting Through-Mortises
The Coolest Cutting Board Ever?
Finishing Technique for Greene and Greene Furniture
How to Sharpen Hollow Chisel Mortising Bits
Customize Your Router for Centered Mortises
Speed Up Handplane Honing with Your Ruler
The Essential Tool Chest
A Woodworker's Guide to Grain Direction
Tweaking a shaker tablecomments (1) February 7th, 2012 in blogs
Fine Woodworking staffers seem constantly to be working on “lunch-time projects,” furniture that we build piecemeal a few afternoons or evenings during the week. This tapered-leg Shaker Table, which ran as a cover story project in FWW 210, is the first lunch-time project I’ve finished since joining FWW back in August.
I followed the plans pretty closely for this build, although I strayed a little on some of the finer details. The noteworthy items...
Most of the lumber came from a few large slabs of cherry I bought from an arborist last year. The slabs were quite wide, which allowed me to chop out a lot of straight-grained pieces for the top and the aprons. The tree came from a town near my house in Central Connecticut, which is a nice backstory now that it's in my living room.
The drawer sides are poplar and the drawer back is soft maple, a curious combination. Why did I do that? Well, I started with soft maple sides, but I miscut the dovetails. I didn’t have any maple left, so I had to substitute poplar. It looks nice, but I would have preferred maple.
The solid wood drawer bottom is pine that came from a tree near the yard of one of my colleagues. That pine is really making the rounds here at FWW. Some of the same lumber also recently became a blanket chest.
There were two very small changes to the design, but they stand out. First is that I trimmed the length and width of the table top, albeit not by much. The plans call for a top that is 16 in. wide by 24 in. long, but mine finished at 15 1/2 in. wide by 22 in. long.
I picked padauk for the pegs, rather than cherry. I don’t have a dowel maker, so I cut them with a 1/4 in. plug cutter. I added pegs to the front rails, too, although I wish the pegs were a slightly smaller diameter. I also added a peg to the knob, which was a little trickier. I drilled out the hole for the peg while the blank was on the lathe by chucking a 1/4 in. forstner bit in the tail. I glued the peg in place before turning it.
There's also a hidden detail I changed. I used figure 8 clips to attach the top, rather than drilling screws through the kicker and into the top. This was due to an oversight on my part: My kickers were slightly narrower than those in the plans, I didn’t pre-drill the countersunk holes, and I didn’t have a right angle drill that would allow me to drill the hole. But the clips worked great.
In the plans, Christian Becksvoort used an oil finish on the table, but I ended up using just four coats of shellac and a coat of paste wax on the top and drawer front.
posted in: blogs, table, dovetails, wood turning, cherry, tenons, shaker, maple, shellac, poplar, padauk
Save up to 51% on Fine Woodworking
Become a Better Woodworker
ABOUT THE EDITORS MAILBOX
FineWoodworking.com editors report from the woodworking front lines. Check in every weekday for news, information, projects, and answers to questions from Fine Woodworking readers everywhere.
Learn about our new format!
Archive: Temporarily unavailable. Stay tuned and sorry for the inconvenience.