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Five Minute Guide: How to Use a Tablesaw -
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3 Steps to Great Glue-Ups: Sliding Dovetail Joints -
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Glory, thy name is Unifence
comments (23) September 2nd, 2010 in blogs
Yes, it might be a bit blasphemous to equate glory with a table saw rip fence (or offensive in some other way, I'm sure), but the Unifence I recently installed on my Unisaw has been a tremendous, work-altering revelation to me. When I bought my Unisaw (see the story here), it had a disgusting, treacherous, and malign growth attached: a Jet-lock fence. The fence was inaccurate, hard to adjust, and had a slightly bent fence body. It was frustrating to use my saw. In fact, I never attempted any precise rips on it, because the fence just couldn't perform. So I always longed to upgrade the fence. And I knew just the fence I wanted: a Delta Unifence. I'd used one quite a bit back in South Carolina, in the shop of my friend Joe Mazurek, and loved it. But a new Unifence was always a bit of a pipe dream (they retailed for about twice what I paid for the Unisaw). However, I recently caught a break on one and I am glad I did.
Here's what I like. First, the Unifence is a fantasic t-square style fence. It slides smoothly along the saw table and extension fence, locks square to the blade every time, and doesn't move a smidge once locked into place. Second, the fence can be slid to and fro on the clamping head, like rip fences on European saws. That means you can slide it back past the blade and use it as a stop for cross cutting. Third, the rule is accurate and I don't have to measure from the blade to the fence repeatedly. I just line up the cursor to the distance I want, lock the fence in place, and go to work. Finally, and this is a huge plus for someone who likes to make boxes as much as I do, the fence body is actually two fences in one. In addition to the standard fence, there is a fence face for ripping thin stock. All you have to do is detach the fence body from the clamping head and rotate it 90 degrees. The standard face is then clamped to the head and a very short face now faces the blade. What's the big benefit? Well, your hand is no longer cramped between the fence and push stick, and you can use a shorter push stick, which makes it easier to control the stock.
It's like I have a brand new saw. Really. It's no longer a machine for rough work, but a precision tool that I can trust every time I use it. And that makes me smile. (Now I just need to put in new bearings and hook up some dust collection.)
Here's the bad news. Delta, I've been told, has stopped making the Unifence, which probably explains why I was able to buy one at 50% off retail. However, there still are some around. So, if you're looking for a new fence, consider the Unifence. I'm glad I did.
(Safety note: You'll notice that I don't have a splitter or guard installed. That's not because I'm a reckless fool. The throat plate that's installed is for my cross-cut sled. Otherwise, I use a small splitter built into the throat plate. As for the guard, it's sad to say that the saw didn't come with one. However, I'm about to make one that hangs on a rigid, but adjustable, bar attached to the ceiling.)
posted in: blogs, Tablesaw, rip fence, Unisaw, Unifence
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Comments (23)
Posted: 1:32 am on September 25th
Posted: 9:45 am on September 9th
All the other previous positive comments relating to the Unifence I agree with. It has provided me with 10+ years of superb service.
I believe the Unifence would still be offered if it could service both sides of the blade without a reinstall.
Posted: 8:49 pm on September 7th
Anyone have any comments as to why one is better than the other?
Thanks,
Jerry
Posted: 5:18 pm on September 7th
Posted: 2:08 pm on September 7th
2X on the TtrackUSA aftermarket fence for the Unifence. I was never that impressed with the Unifence aluminum extrusion--nowhere to attach a featherboard, for example. The T-slots cast into all faces of the Ttrack fence are the fix :)
[img]http://ttrackusa.com/Assets/09_images/table_saw_images/uni_t_fence_01.jpg[/img]
Posted: 12:52 pm on September 7th
I've been using the Unifence for years and love it. It's remained accurate and sturdy and still slides smoothly across the saw. I added a dust collecting guard that is attached to the ceiling of the shop. It has the ability to fold up out of the way when needed. Built out of 2" steel tubing and some parts from a different guard I had that was not as useful as it could have been both as a guard and in its dust collecting ability. I'd be happy to share a photo or two.
J
Posted: 11:47 am on September 7th
Like all T-square fences, the Unifence doesn't clamp at the back. Does it flex under use? Perhaps, but if it does, it has no meaningful consequences on the fence's use. Also, the rips are still parallel, at least parallel enough for woodworking. If properly set up, I doubt you could measure any variance with a standard shop rule, which means the rips are more than accurate enough for building furniture.
Posted: 11:29 am on September 7th
Thanks for catching the spelling mistake. However, "malign" is a perfectly suitable adjective. Also, thanks for giving us your opinion about another feature of the fence.
And for all those who have asked why it has been discontinued, I will attempt to get an official answer from Delta.
Posted: 11:24 am on September 7th
As to the fence and the possibility it's being discontinued by Delta: One reason may be that customers aren't aware of the benefits of this adjustable fence. The biggest advantage, IMHO, and one that wasn't explained by this author, is being able to set the end of the fence in line with the center of the blade while ripping. This greatly reduces the liklihood of kickback. The ability to use it as a stop block is but a minor advantage compared to such a major safety technique.
Posted: 10:52 am on September 7th
Bill Shannon
Posted: 8:54 am on September 7th
Posted: 8:33 am on September 7th
http://ttrackusa.com/unifence.htm
Posted: 8:05 am on September 7th
Nice post.
Posted: 7:42 am on September 7th
Posted: 6:39 am on September 7th
My Unisaw is also right tilt. However, I almost never tilt my blade. I know that's odd, but it's just how I work. I steer clear of miters unless there for something small, like a box. In those cases, I use a chamfer bit at the router table or my shooting board and a low angle jack plane.
As for the teflon pads, I should probably track down some spares now, before they're no longer available. Thanks for the idea.
Posted: 6:12 pm on September 3rd
On the con side: I wish I could buy a longer fence and I have yet to come up with a satisfactory auxilliary fence to clamp on for the times I rip a long 45 degree bevel.
Lastly, I bought mine in 1985 and the teflon rub blocks are no longer available.
Posted: 5:31 pm on September 3rd
Posted: 12:57 pm on September 3rd
Of course, sometimes, the square profile of the T2 seems easier to build jigs for (those that straddle the fence), but I wouldn't trade still!
thanks,
Radha
Posted: 4:12 pm on September 2nd
I should have put this in my last comment. I'm using this design as a basis for mine: http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/blade_guard.pdf.
Good luck.
Posted: 1:31 pm on September 2nd
It will definitely be shop-made. I plan to make a the guard from Lexan and everything else from solid wood or plywood. I'm sure to post a blog about it when I'm done.
Posted: 1:21 pm on September 2nd
thanks,
bb
Posted: 12:20 pm on September 2nd
thanks,
bb
Posted: 12:20 pm on September 2nd
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