Biscuit Joiner Tips and Tricks
Smoothing Plane Tips and Techniques
Workbench Tool Storage Solutions
Bevel-Up Jack Planes are a Workshop Workhorse
A Woodturner's Guide to Chucks and Jaws
Simple Tape Trick for Tight Fitting Through-Mortises
Capture More Dust from Your Router Table
Hinge Mortises on the Tablesaw
How to Sharpen Hollow Chisel Mortising Bits
Mounting Knife Hinges in Curved Doors
Speed Up Handplane Honing with Your Ruler
The Coolest Cutting Board Ever?
The Essential Tool Chest
Customize Your Router for Centered Mortises
Drawbore Your Mortise-and-Tenon Joinery
How to Glue-Up Joints: Tips on gluingcomments (7) May 10th, 2010 in blogs
Nothing provokes more stress than a big glue-up. Learning how to properly clamp your work is one of the most critical elements of success. Read more about clamping here. But properly applying glue is also crucial. Here are some tips:
Wet both surfaces
It is important to get even, continuous glue coverage on the surfaces to be bonded, so apply yellow glue to both surfaces when you can. This provides instant wetting of both surfaces without relying on pressure and surface flatness to transfer the glue from one surface to the other. You will, however, have to work fast as the open time for yellow glue can be around five minutes at a temperature of 70O F (21O C) and relative air humidity of 50%.
Now long should the joint be subjected to clamp pressure? The time varies from species to species, with woods that have an even density across the growth rings, such as maple, requiring less time. But in general, the glueline reaches around 80% of its ultimate strength after 60 minutes of clamping. After this, joints can be released from the clamps, but the full glue strength won’t develop for about 24 hours.
How strong is your glueline?
Even if you have used the correct pressure, it is still reassuring to make sure that you are achieving well-glued joints. A simple test is to place a sharp chisel exactly on the glueline, and strike it with a mallet.
A weak joint will split in the glueline, either because the glue was too thick or the glue didn’t penetrate the wood correctly. The percentage of wood failure will be very low or nonexistent. A good joint will split mostly in the wood adjacent to the glueline.
-Excerpt from article on clamping by Roman Rabiej.
posted in: blogs, glue-up
Save up to 51% on Fine Woodworking
Become a Better Woodworker
ABOUT THE EDITORS MAILBOX
FineWoodworking.com editors report from the woodworking front lines. Check in every weekday for news, information, projects, and answers to questions from Fine Woodworking readers everywhere.
Learn about our new format!
Archive: Temporarily unavailable. Stay tuned and sorry for the inconvenience.