Spalt Your Own Lumber: Dissecting the Colored Molds
comments (12) January 4th, 2010 in blogs
Ah, molds. They make us sneeze, can give nasty infections in immunocompromised people, and are responsible for some of the most brilliant colors on wood. The big trick in utilizing molds for spalting is knowing which to use, which to avoid, and what safety precautions to take if you decide to use some of the more irritating varieties.
First, a review
In case you don't remember, there are two fundamentally different types of fungi that spalt wood. Decay fungi actually decay the wood, causing it to become structurally less sound. Mold fungi do NOT decay wood, but may increase its permeability (meaning it takes 6 coats of finish to get a decent luster instead of 3). Decay fungi are of no major health concern, especially since everyone working with wood should be wearing a respirator and goggles anyway. Remember, wood dust is a nasty carcinogen. Some mold fungi irritate allergies, the same way a dog or cat might. Others are toxic in high quantities, and some are completely benign.
Surface versus penetrating colonization
Most mold fungi will not colonize into the wood, and will remain on the surface. I don't generally consider these fungi to be spalting fungi, except in rare instances. Surface colonization molds are also some of the most toxic, likeAspergillus spp. Many of the green stains visible on the surface of wood are from Penicillium spp. and Trichoderma spp., and some species within all of the aforementioned groups are toxic, while others are perfectly fine.
green stain on maple - not a good spalting choice
Since it can be nearly impossible to tell them apart without a scope, use caution when spalting with these fungi. Spray (and by spray, I mean drench) the surface of your wood with 91% isopropyl alcohol and allow it to dry before turning. The alcohol will take care of most of the spores. If you aren't concerned about keeping the color, repeat the above step with 10% bleach as well, for added protection.
Since surface molds are tricky to work with and potentially hazardous, I've never classified them as spalting fungi, because they do not spalt in the truest sense of the word. However, some molds colonize only the surface of wood, but secrete a pigment which penetrates deeper. These are the wonderful spalting molds, and deserve special attention.
Spalting surface molds - a rare breed
Certain molds, like Chlorociboria (blue-green stain) and Arthrographis cuboidea (pink stain) primarily colonize the surface of wood. Their pigments then diffuse down into the wood, creating beautiful spalting without any decay. Brilliant! And neither of these two fungi are known to cause health problems in healthy adults. However, that doesn't mean that you shouldn't take precautions anyway. Who knows what you may end up being allergic to!
pink stain of Arthroghraphis cuboidea. be careful you don't mistake it for Fusarium.
Penetrating molds - ye ole blue stain
Perhaps the most well-known penetrating molds are the blue stain fungi. The great majority of these are not harmful, but this is such a large grouping of fungi that I'm sure at least a couple of them must be irritating to someone somewhere (and not just irritating in the pocket book). Blue stains quickly penetrate wood, leaving behind anywhere from a light baby blue to a nearly black stain in their wake. They're great fun to use, especially when paired with other brightly colored fungi.
blue stain on basswood - easy to use and easy on the lungs
ID tips
1) Green means stop
So the real trick now is to tell the surface molds from the penetrating molds, and to avoid most of the surface molds altogether. A good rule of thumb is never trust anything green. I'm not talking about the aquamarine green ofChlorociboria, but the forest green shown above. Every so often I get a green stain to take internally, but mostly they just surface colonize and make me sneeze. A good number of them are also toxic, so its best to just stay away unless you are armed with some alcohol and bleach.
2) Blue means go
Blue stains are mostly harmless, so have no qualms about anything blue. The same goes for the blue-greenChlorociboria stain.
3) Hesitate on pink
A bright pink color can be cause by the harmless Arthographis cuboidea, or by Fusarium species, some of which are quite harmful. Unless you know your spalting tubs are colonized by Arthrographis, be sure to spray down your wood before use.
Remember -
Fungal spores from molds can cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals, in the same way that dust, pollen, and animal dander can affect others. Some fungal spores are dangerous to people with repressed immune systems, or can be dangerous to healthy adults with extended exposure. With that said, please keep in mind that wood dust is just as harmful, if not more, than some of the nastiest fungal spores. If you are wearing goggles and a respirator when you turn, and have an air filtration system in place (as you should even when working with unspalted wood), you don't need to be concerned about the spores from spalted wood. Remember - spalted wood presents no additional danger over plain wood. Now, go forth and spalt!
http://www.northernspalting.com
posted in: blogs, spalting, pink stain, blue stain, molds, green stain
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Comments (12)
Posted: 10:43 pm on January 14th
Posted: 5:42 pm on January 9th
Posted: 2:14 pm on January 9th
For pricing, I charge based upon the type of spalting. Blue stain is so ridiculously easy to get going that I rarely even increase the price of the bowl. Pieces with excellent zone lines will get perhaps a $10-$15 markup, whereas pieces with a penetrating green stain may be marked nearly $100 more than a plain piece would be. So basically, I charge increasing amounts for increasing difficulty to work with, or increasing colonization time.
Intarsia is wood inlay, similar to marquetry. Wikipedia has an excellent article on intarsia, if you are interested.
Hope I helped!
Posted: 7:10 am on January 9th
Posted: 4:37 pm on January 8th
Most stains do not affect the strength of the wood, but most will affect the wood permeability. All this means is that more finish is required on stained wood.
Some types of spalting alter the surface of the wood enough that new types of spalting can easily colonize. Sometimes, pretreatment of wood with one type of fungus is needed before another one can grow.
Posted: 2:40 pm on January 8th
R Williams - Historically spalted wood was used for intarsia. Today it is commonly used as a decorative wood in turnings and for things like cabinet panels (any non-load bearing application). Objects made from spalted wood fetch a nice premium, similar to birds eye maple.
Spalting takes anywhere from a month to years, depending on the fungus you use and the type of wood you inoculate. Aspen spalts more quickly than birch, etc. In general, bleaching and blue stain take the least amount of time, whereas zone lines and other pigments take far more.
You could use dyes and stains, but I think part of the appeal of spalted wood is that it is a natural process. You may be able to pick what colors you want, but you have no control over where they go on the wood, how they interact, etc. It's natures paint, and that, for some, makes it highly intriguing.
Posted: 2:38 pm on January 8th
Posted: 3:46 pm on January 7th
Posted: 3:43 pm on January 7th
Thanks for all the info so far!
Posted: 12:43 pm on January 6th
If you do a search here on FWW for 'spalting', you should come up with other blog entries I've done about induced spalting. They offer insight into some of the responsible fungi, and methods for reliable home spalting.
To more directly answer your question - you can easily inoculate your wood with the mold color you want (or the wood decay you want, if you're after zone lines or bleaching). To do so you can either harvest the fungi yourself from the woods, or buy the active cultures online. The mold grows on the wood and you stop the process when you have achieved your desired color. Induced spalting is a heck of a lot faster and more accurate than just letting airborne spores have their way with your lumber!
Posted: 2:39 pm on January 5th
-StairPartPros.com
Posted: 11:23 am on January 5th
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