The challenges in achieving an attractive finish on a project made of cherry are dictated by how carefully the stock was initially selected. In other words, the die is cast the moment you choose a board based on its appearance, pigmentation, porosity and texture. Because of cherry's unending patina-forming process, its ultimate appearance is a perpetual work-in-process, regardless of what you do to tone, seal or polish the completed piece. I suspect, given my own early experiences with this species, that a beginning woodworker tends to assume that the stunning beauty of cherry pieces created by experienced masters is the result of some special skill or secret trick in the finishing process, but much of the credit goes to the wood itself.
Once a completed piece stands before you -- shaped, scraped and sanded in its fresh, raw form -- there is a compelling tendency to conclude that it is too light and pink in color, and that it will be a hopeless loss unless you stain it. Opinions vary on the use of stains or dyes of any kind, and this choice clearly varies among woodworkers of all stripes. Personally, I never use any coloring agents on raw cherry. To take command of the wood's appearance in what to me is an excessively forceful way, can deprive it -- at least in part -- of ever achieving the full depth of its natural patina. When working with cherry, I favor keeping it simple. I use either tung oil or shellac, depending upon the amount of curl in the figure and whether or not I want a high luster, film-type of finish.
Tung oil heightens the contrast in the figure and will enhance the appearance of curly grain, if you intentionally want to do so. However, if the wood has only a slightly undulating grain that might cause unattractive, patchy differences in the wood's porosity, I skip the oil and proceed directly to a coat of shellac. Spotting the wood's potential for patchy porosity can be tricky at first. But it's an easy skill to master by learning to read shifts in the reflective surface luster of the raw wood while changing its position with respect to a bright source of light.
To me, shellac is cherry's perfect partner, especially when applied using a French polish technique, and I seldom use anything else. On table tops or other surfaces that will be subject to wear or abuse, I sometimes add a final top coat of a more durable varnish over the shellac. I never use varnishes that contain UV blockers, because the last thing I would want to do is retard the patina-forming process. I have on rare occasions added tinting pigments to a second coat of shellac in an effort to mask my less-than-perfect stock selection or to blend out some minor patchiness, but these are desperate measures and better thought of as imperfect cures for mistakes in judgment that should never have happened.
Given the litany of pitfalls cherry presents from log to last-minute details, perhaps the greatest mystery is how it could have such a huge and dedicated following among woodworkers. You don't just work cherry, you compete with it. You dodge its deceptions while you snare its charms.
Jon Arno retired from a family-owned lumber business and now spends his time writing and working on small projects in his basement shop. For more on cherry, see Jon's article "
The Mysteries and Magic of Cherry" in the March/April issue of
Fine Woodworking (#169).
An Online Extra to
Fine Woodworking #169