STL 150: Tim Coleman talks shop
Plus, the guys talk about outfeed tables, bandsaw drift, veneer thickness, and cross grain glue-ups
01:20 – Question 1:
I’m looking to build a large outfeed table for my table saw with plenty of storage for jigs, air compressor, tools etc. I would like to have this outfeed table be mobile but I need to find a solution to help level the outfeed table to the table saw. Any suggestions?
07:26 – Question 2:
I’m having a real problem with bandsaw drift. I own a 12-in. bandsaw. I Have tried everything to get this saw to cut straight. Right when I get it just right and use a practice piece it cuts great then when I try cutting the project it drifts off the cut then straightens out and cuts at the wrong dimension. I use 1/4-in. 4-tpi skip and a 1/2-in. 4tpi resaw blade and it happens on every blade. All blades are new not dull. Guides are horrible and hard to set but I think I have them set correctly.
13:50 – Interview: Tim Coleman
24:38 – Question 3 with Tim Coleman:
Please discuss veneer from the perspective of making your own, both for show faces and shop made plywood. What range of thickness is considered veneer, vs. lamination? I want to be able to hand plane the surface lightly. At what thickness does seasonal wood movement become an issue?
31:06 – All Time Favorite Technique of All Time… for this week:
- Mike – Using a box joint blade set with a foam push-pad
- Matt – Beveling the edge of a door to get a tighter gap
- Using a bevel gauge as a guide while cutting dovetails on the bandsaw
45:15 – Question 4
I’m making the Steve Latta spice box from issue #196 and I’m concerned about the crown and base molding. As the case expands and contracts with seasonal movement won’t gaps eventually show between the molding and case, or could the molding crack? Parts of the molding glue up will be cross grain. I’m at the point where it’s time to attach the molding but I’m afraid I’m missing something. Any advice you can offer would be great!
Mike had a question about what glue Steve used. His answer is as follows:
“I would more than likely use white. Hide has a rigid bond and would be more inclined to shear. White is the most elastic of the modern adhesives so I would use it. I would not use a yellow (aliphatic resin) because, although not rigid, it allows for less movement than white.” -Steve Latta
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Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to email@example.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.