I don't think there is any reason to doubt Bob here. I've been using this method for years. It works well and is not dangerous. His hands were no where near the blades and the board was not rocking.
There is not easy answer to that question. That is the sole purpose of a planer. Hand tools are about the only option without one.
Tom K. If a jointer is the only way you have to flatten one side, then your method the one to use. I am really surprised that Fine Woodworking would suggest even attempting this. Even with push blocks, should the board rock and twist, loss of control can prove disastrous.. My left thumb is 3/8" shorter because of something too similar to this. Even the piles of sawdust are better than relying on NOT rocking the board. An accident waiting to happen.
To get the maximum thickness, you must split the difference of the front and back gap: slide a wedge under the backside low corner til it matches the front low corner. Keep the wedge-shim in place by keeping pressure on the back end, or use some superglue, hot melt. Once you've established a flat face on the front and back low corners, keep pressure on those corners as subsequent passes flatten the whole face. I don't think what's shown in this video will work, since there's too much wobble in this freehand method.
user4234885- you can't very accurately. Perhaps with a good band saw you could resaw accurately enough to run the other side through the jointer. Most wood suppliers such as Woodworker's Source allow you to pick your boards according to the quality you can work with.
Just restack in a neat stack.
Thanks for this. There's one thing I'm wondering about. Since I don't have a thickness planer, how could I flatten the other side of the board so it is parallel to the first face I flattened?
As a user of hand planes only, it's interesting to see how a little bit of manual dexterity and "feel" can also be applied to a stationary jointer.
That is more work than the board is worth... Glue sacrificial
strips to the board's edger that are wider that the board's thickness plus the gap between the board's bottom surface and the top surface of the bench and run it through the thickness planer. Once you have a flat surface turn it over and surface the other side. Both methods will reduce the thickness. And the thickness planer is far more safer than using the jointer.
Great tip. I learned from an old timer an addition to this method. With a couple pinches of sawdust, build a small pad at the front and back of the board to hold it to about half the warp depth. That way you won't wobble the board through the jointer. The sawdust won't harm the blades and you get a way to hold the board still.
Would you go on to edge jointing at that point? This makes me think I'm wasting a lot of time face jointing the entire surface.
cut it shorter,joint it,save thickness.Call it a 3FT rule For 4 qtr. I have jointed thousands of brd ft using this method.13/16th plus results.
Great Tip! Saves a lot of time & labor
Nice. I've always done the pressure on the lead end thing, and it takes about 10 passes. This is very helpful. Thank you.