Subscribe now and save up to 56%
Most bandings rely on contrasting woods for their display, but this type of banding, known as a lunette, uses one species of wood and relies on shading caused by scorching the wood for its contrast. I used it to edge the top of this demilune table. You’ll need four router bits to make this banding (see source of supply at the bottom of the page), and 4/4 white-phase birch, clear maple, or holly.
Step OneBegin by preparing about 6 board feet of stock to 7/8 in. thick. It needs to be 6 in. wide by 1-ft. to 2-ft. long. Keep one piece 40 in. long and set it aside. Cross-cut the shorter pieces into 13/16 in. lengths until you have about 50 pieces that measure 7/8 in. thick by 13/16 in. wide by 6 in. long with the grain running in the direction of the short width. Glue these pieces along several pieces of scrap keeping them butted, but not glued, together.
Click to enlarge
Step Two Install a 3/4 in. bullnose bit in the router table and use it to profile the edge of each piece.
Step Three Rip the bullnose profile from the edge (slightly more than 3/8 in. wide), leaving about 3/8 in. of the birch still glued to the scrap.
Step FourSwitch router bits and use the 3/8 in. bullnose to profile the remaining 3/8 in. of birch material still glued to the scrap. This cut will produce the half-round section and leave a parallel tab of material as shown in the image below.
Cut the birch material from the scrap board by ripping it along the glue line. You’ll be left with a piece that is a proud 3/16 in. thick. Don’t remove the parallel tab of material until after you shade the pieces in the next step. Once shaded, you can rip the tab off on the bandsaw.
Step Five Using a hotplate and clean fine sand in a cast iron skillet, shade the entire width of each bull nose. For the best effect, shade the point that corresponds to two o’clock when viewing the bull nose with its flat down. Be careful not to char the wood. The pieces will become slightly deformed but are still useable.
Step Six Mount the 3/4 in. core-box bit in the router table and use a sliding wooden sled set up with a half-dowel to index the cut. Then rout 3/8-in. deep grooves 3/4 in. apart.
Step Seven Do not attempt to route every groove as the short-grain near the points of tangency is very brittle. By routing every other groove first, you will avoid frustration.
Step Eight With their shaded portions oriented in the same direction, glue the bullnose pieces into the 3/4-in. wide grooves. When the glue has cured, plane the pieces flush to the work piece.
Step Nine Place the workpiece back on the sled and align it so that the bit will cut a groove that just touches the first bullnose piece. Clamp the workpiece to the sled. After you rout the first two grooves, check that alignment is correct. If not, adjust the half-dowel indexer on the sled. Continue cutting the remaining grooves between the bullnose inserts.
Don’t worry about small amounts of tearout near the top of each cut. These won’t be visible one the second line of bullnose pieces is glued in.
Step Ten Glue in the remaining 3/4 in. bullnose pieces, again paying attention to the orientation of the shading. Plane these flush when the glue has dried.
Step Eleven Attach a 3/8 in. piece of bullnose molding to the sled exactly halfway between where the 3/4 in. molding was and the slot for the router bit. Use double-sided tape initially, and then screw it down once the location is tested.
Step Twelve Cut 3/16-in.-deep grooves using the 3/8 in. core-box bit through the center of each bullnose, but this time cut all of them at once as the material between the grooves is substantial.
Then begin gluing the small half-round pieces into the grooves. You will only be able to glue in every other bullnose piece to leave room for clamping so this will take two rounds of glue up. Orient their shaded sides in the opposite direction of those of the 3/4 in. bullnose pieces.
When the glue is cured, plane the bullnose pieces flush. If desired, material may be removed from the opposite face to achieve the proper thickness.
Step Thirteen With a zero-clearance insert and a thin-kerf blade buried in a MDF hold down clamped to the fence, rip 3/64-in wide strips of banding.
Step Fourteen The banding can either be used as a single strip, or several interesting variations can be made by flipping the banding end-for-end and/or book matching.
3/4 in. bullnose MLCS #7764, Woodworker’s Supply #819-718 3/4 in. core-box MLCS #8747, Woodworker’s Supply #819-117 3/8 in. bullnose MLCS #8761, Woodworker’s supply #819-682 3/8 in. core-box MLCS #6444, Woodworker’s Supply #819-082
Photos by Mark Schofield
Get woodworking tips, expert advice and special offers in your inbox
Become a member today
Get instant access to all FineWoodworking.com content.
Subscribe to Fine Woodworking
Save up to 56%
I was cutting some dovetails recently. Here are the tools that I use when I cut them with hand tools.
Fast, fun approach to making a comfortable, casual seat
Once you master the basics, the only limit is your imagination
When doing curved stringing, I lightly clamp a Teflon-coated curling iron in my vise and use it to bend the strings before gluing them into place. The curling iron works…
Make something fun while learning new skills
Pierced and carved, these panels add punch to any piece
Become a member today and get instant access to all FineWoodworking.com content!
Plus tips, advice, and special offers from Fine Woodworking.
In-depth online classes from the experts at Fine Woodworking.
Browse our collection of hundreds of quality plans including Shaker furniture, Arts and Crafts pieces, beds, diy plans, chairs, workbenches, tool storage, and more.
© 2016 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved.
Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.
Start your subscription today and save up to 56%