An Exploration in Finishing
A modern take on jin-di-sugi and ebonizingKevin Rodel’s journey into the possibilities of Arts and Crafts furniture, seen on the back cover of Fine Woodworking #196, didn’t stop at design and construction. He also ventured into new finishing methods, jin-di-sugi and ebonizing. Jin-di-sugi is a Japanese technique ideal for woods like cedar and cypress because there is a big difference in hardness between the early growth and the later growth in each annual ring. Traditionally, wood was buried for years, then unearthed to reveal interesting decay patterns. But Rodel is experimenting with a more time-efficient method that uses fire to replicate the years of decay, revealing remarkable grooves, contours, and shapes.
Jin-di-sugi
Jin-di-sugi finish. This coffee table top was abraded to create a deeply textured, topographic surface.
Rodel creates the look of jin-di-sugi finish by torching the wood surface and brushing away burn marks. He uses a blowtorch with a flame spreader to burn the cypress.
Too much scorching can be difficult to remove, so he keeps the flame moving. A wire brush and a little hard work remove the charred wood and the softer growth.
This scraping step leaves behind the contoured pattern of the raised hard grain, ready for a finish. This jin-di-sugi table is topped off with a light coat of linseed oil.
Jin-di-sugi plus ebonizing
Rodel also melds jin-di-sugi with ebonizing. Ebonizing wood is not a new process, but he combines two techniques that compensate for each other’s shortcomings. He used this method on the glass-topped table (see closeup below) to enhance the jin-di-sugi finish on the cypress top rails as well as the sleek cherry parts that make up the rest of the table.
He uses a two-step ebonizing method in which he applies a chemical dye solution first, then a water-based dye. The chemical solution has a tendency toward blotchiness, and the water-based dye fades with time. Used together, the two methods balance out these negative aspects, leaving a uniform finish that does not fade.
Step 1: Blacken with chemicals. Iron reacts with tannins in wood to create a black finish, but woods such as cypress and cherry don’t contain a lot of tannins, so Rodel precoats them with a mixture of 1 heaping teaspoon of tannic acid powder (www.woodfinishingenterprises.com) and 8–10 oz. of warm water (see image below).
He then applies an iron solution (equal parts vinegar, water, and steel wool, allowed to soak for two weeks) to color the wood (see image below). He keeps the solution in a 24-oz. jar with a breathable lid so the explosive hydrogen gases can escape.
Step 2: Even out blotchiness with a dye. A coat of water-based dye (www.homesteadfinishing.com) over the iron solution creates an even, colorfast jet-black finish that can be clear-coated.
From Fine Woodworking #196
Photos: Anissa Kapsales and John Tetreault
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