I suspect that many of us use our routers upside-down, like a shaper, more than we do as a portable tool. I certainly do. But I don’t like the flimsy metal stands sold for this use. They are too small and, used on top of the bench, are too high to be comfortable. Here’s a router table I built a couple of years ago that solves these problems. The table is solid and set at a comfortable height. Because the table top hinges over, I don’t have to squat down to remove the router, change cutters or adjust cutter height. I usually bolt, screw or clamp appropriate guides to the table for straight routing. For irregular contours I use a vernier-controlled guide as shown in the sketch. The vernier adjustment allows me to make two passes, removing most of the wood on the first pass and cleaning up the last 1/16 in. on a final cut. I make the rub block on the guide from hardboard. Any unusual problem can usually be solved simply by making a new specially shaped hardboard rub block. John W. Greenwood, Dublin, Calif. Fine Woodworking Magazine, February 1981 No. 26
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Adding hardware is often one of the trickier parts of a project, and this toolbox is no exception. In this video, Matt installs the door pins and lock in a way that ensures perfect alignment of the door.
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