jsmorgan1

I started trying my hand at woodworking a few years ago when my father in law passed away and I got his Delta table saw. I had no knowledge of "how" to use it so I started reading different books and watching videos of Norm and others on the TS use. While all were informative, they did not show just how quick a mishap can turn into a disaster and injury. I've had a few injuries due to my not knowing exactly how to make a cut properly. Kickback was involved in all of them. I try to be very aware of where my hand is at all times in relation to the blade. I have made some cuts and thought, wow, I wasn't paying attention to where my had was and that was a near miss! Bit kickback happens in a flash. I once was ripping a 12" wide shelf. Instead of being 12" wide all along the cut, it was a little wider at the end and with the magnet feather boards holding it down it bound and broke the feather boards kicking back the board on the left side. The board caught my had and at first I thought I'd lost a finger but was fortunate and didn't. My point is: I did not know how to properly make the cut. I didn't realize if you use strong and tight fitting feather boards the piece needs to be the same width or perhaps leave the feather boards off.

All in all, Saw Stop or not, Proper Usage is what should be mandatory. As someone pointed out you can walk in and buy a table saw without any knowledge on HOW to use it and take it home, set it up and injure yourself. Perhaps there should be a short school on how to use such a tool? We have to go to a class on hand gun usage before we can get a concealed carry license even if we have been shooting for years, war veterans or professional shooters. I know you can't make people use tools as they were meant but an instruction class for beginners would be a great help and possibly cut (no pun intended)back on injuries.

As for Saw Stop and their licensing fee, well, I wish I'd come up with their technology! After all, isn't that the American Dream?

I too have a Delta X-5 Unisaw. It came with the Biesmeier fence which looks like a T-Style Fence. It adjust very easily and locks down tight. Once set, the measurement seems to be exact. Perhaps this is why the Unifence was discontuned.

Anyone have any comments as to why one is better than the other?

Thanks,
Jerry

I was using the "MAG" hold downs for a featherboard and to hold the workpiece flat against the table. All of a sudden, the piece broke the hard plastic on the MAG Switch and threw the piece back at on on the "left" side of the table. When I first looked at my had I thought I'd for sure lost at least one finger or more. After wrapping my hand in a towel and the bleeding subsided, I saw I would need stitches on at least one finger. The other 3 were damaged but did not need stitches. To this day, I wonder what happened. The only thing I can think of is my workpiece was "tapered" causing the pressure against the blade which after passing (or trying to) snapped the mag switches. Now, let me be clear, those mag switches are strong and I would never have thought they could be broken, least of all be the table saw. That just shows how much force a tablesaw generates. Also, standing on the "left" side does NOT insure you won't be hit by kickback.

One other thought. When I went to the "minor emergency clinic" they verified I had insurance but since it was a new provider, they did not know how much would be paid by my insurance company so they wanted me to pay the entire amount. So, I decided to go to Walgreen's and get some butterfly bandages, tape and betadine and doctor myself. Now, imagine me standing in line with my bloody towel and blood still coming out. Needless to say, they let me move to the front of the line!

Jerry

New to woodworking, I must ask what may seem to be a dumb question. If you spend $100 +/- for a sheet of hardwood plywood then do you put a veneer top on it? Or, just paint or stain it? When I use real wood I seem to always stain, not paint. When using plywood or MDF I always paint.

I know on the edges it needs banding of some sort but I do wonder about applying a veneer over a hardwood plywood.

Thanks,
Jerry

I am new to woodworking, only 2 years experience. One of the first things I did was read all the safety information I could get on my Delta Unisaw. Against Delta's advise, I did remove the blade guard as I too like to see where I am cutting. And of course being new, I had no concept of how bad "kickback" could be. I was ripping a board one day and had the "Mag Switch" feather board pressing not only against the board but also a "top" feather board to help hold it down. Now, these were the strong magnets abd the hard plastic or whatever the are made from. All of a sudden there was a loud POP and the feather boards brock, the piece I was cutting came back on the Left side, cut my forefinger, middle finger and ring finger all rather deep. I thought I had lost a few fingers but fortunatly I didn't. To this day, I don't know what happened. Had I not had the feather boards, I believe the whole piece would have cracked me in the head and with the force it had, could have at the least given me a concussion. I think either the board drifted away from the fence or was not level causing the "drift". And, I had no riving knife.

After this incendent, I purchased a riving knife and a jounter to make sure my stock is flat and at 90 degrees. One of the first "attachments" I made to my saw were outfeed tables. I believe they are a must have. Ovedr $200 for the foldaway kind that attaches to the back of the table. Well worth the money.

I have since learned exactly what kickback is and can do. I think not really understanding kickback and its causes is one of the problems. As for the blade? I keep my hands, fingers body and clothing well away from the blade. That, I have always respected. Watching what a spinning blade will do to lumber lets me know my fingers are no match. A tie with a table saw is losing.

A Forest Blade representative once told me to raise the blade to its highest capacity to help prevent any burn. This goes against anything I have ever read. I did try it and I must admit it seems to work but I never raise the blade any higher than I feel comfortable with. Just the wind from the blade is chilling!

Be safe. You can replace the wood!

I am 65 (and never thought of woodworking and could not drive a nail)and 3 years ago inherited my father in laws table saw, small router, 3 sets of chisels, 3 broken hand planes and so many clamps I thought I'd never need. As it turns out, I've had to purchase more clamps! The table saw was a Delta Unisaw which cut great except it could not cut a straight rip. After having it checked out, the fence was bowed and would need to be replaced. After checking prices I decided I did not want to spend $500 for a new fence for a 22 year old saw so I donated the saw and purchase a new Delta Cabinet Saw. After a lot of consideration a did what I thought was an "up-grade" to a 220v 3 1/4 HP unit. I have always thought having something that will not only do the job at hand but have extra power to spare is money well spent. I too have purchased inexpensive (let's face it, nothing is cheap anymore) tools and have gone back for the upgrade to better quality. I've since invested in 2 hand held routers, 1 plunge router and of course the PC 7518 for my router table. Not to mention the $$$$ spent on other items needed.

I am glad to hear from Gary about the band saw. I have gift cards I've been saving for just that. I believe now a band saw is one tool a person needs. After several "mishaps" on the table saw one geats leary and wonders if "it" really needs to be done on a table saw. Of course I've grown more careful too. You don't "attack" a job on the table saw least the saw will attack you.

One of the first things to learn is patience. Take the time to think out what you are doing and the safest way to do it. Rushing anything in woodworking will lead to more time doing the job over or waiting for a wound to heal. I know from experience.

After all that, I still love it and only wish I had started at a much earlier time in my life. There is so much to learn. My one desire: To build a piece of furniture, desk, table or whatever, that my children will want to keep and hand down to my grandchildren and their children. Who knows, maybe it will happen.

Thanks,
Jerry

Just like a lot of people here, I too was inspired by Norm and his great talant for woodworking. I own some of his DVD's and watch them over and over always learning from them.

I will miss his shows and advise.

Here is my one and only complaint (other than the show closing):

You made everything look so damn simple! :-)

Jerry

I do have a question regarding blade height on a tablesaw. Being new to woodworking, I've read books, watched videos and received advice from experienced woodworkers and have received the same answer: "blade should be no more than 1/4 inch above workpiece and fence and blade set at 90 degrees. Here is the kicker:

While at my favorite woodworking supply shop, there were 3 or 4 representatives from a named blade mfg. I watched and they asked me if I had any questions. Well, that was the opening. I told them I was working on a project and was using red oak and was getting a lot of "burn" when I cut. They asked to show them on the saw they were using as a demo how I was making the cuts. I showed them and indicated I made sure the blade was set to 90 degrees. When I first lined up a piece to cut for them, I set the blade about 1/4 " above the workpiece. They indicated that was my first mistake. They said the blade should be raised as high as it could go! The reason being, the carbide tip blades get hot when not raised therefore expanding and causing burn. Secondly, they said to "off-set" the fence about 1/16 or so away at the end of the fence. Now, all of this is in direct contradiction with everything I've read or heard. I've tried raising the blade (only as far as I felt comfortable with as a spinning saw blade high enough to feel the wind from it makes you think twice) and it does stop the burn. And, they said most "Eurpoean" saws only have fences running just pass the blade. The reason for the offset was the blade is only cutting at the front, not the back. Thus reducing the cahnce of kickback, which I've been injured by.

Now, does anyone here have any comments on this? I've sent the question to FWW but have not received a response as of yet.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jerry