dkerfoot

Great product. Super easy to use and leaves a nice gloss that doesn't look plasticky...

I most recently used it while refinishing some 100 year old windows. The old varnish had puddled from a century of direct sunlight. I removed the lower window but left the upper window (never designed to move in this case) casing, apron, etc in place.

I stripped the old varnish using paper towels soaked in denatured alcohol covered with saran wrap. Let soften for 30 minutes and it came right off with a putty knife.

The point of all this was that I was able to brush the wipe-on poly on the vertical window casing with no drips or sags! Very nice to work, reasonably priced with and available at your local BORG. Life is good.

Me, me, me! Pick me!

Um gee, it couldn't possibly be because websites like FWW continue to photograph and video through cuts with the guards off, could it?

You are helping to teach a new generation of woodworkers that "real" woodworkers never use the guard. Oh yeah, I know, you have only removed the guard for the photographic purposes - wink, wink, nudge, nudge...

People are being permanently maimed every day because Fine Woodworking refuses to do the right thing and take the few seconds required to reattach the guard whenever you are doing a cut that allows it to be in place.

Fine Woodworking - Do the right thing!

My previous comments were from before the hinged stop-block video was released. I do agree about the loose sleeves.

This video (hinged stop-block) was interesting because the sacrificial fence used provides a legitimate reason for removing the blade guard (though it could easily be modified to allow a guard to be used). But of course, several of the other cuts had zero reason for being done without a guard.

Why do you want to encourage unsafe woodworking practices John White?

This is fairly obviously a bit of Smoke & Mirrors on LN's part. The vast majority of Woodcraft's are very good as demonstrated by the responses. It is a shame that LN won't just admit that they are annoyed about the WoodRiver planes.

While LN is free to stop doing business with Woodcraft for whatever reason, I think it is kind of funny they would be upset over someone copying their design that they copied from Stanley. You can bet they had lawyers look over it and find that since there is no patent or copyright violation, there is no legal solution.

jhonbaker - The answer to your question is a simple one. Because some day my children and/or someone I care about (that would include just about everyone) will watch these videos and be persuaded that "this is the way 'real' woodworkers do things".

These videos are intended to teach. When you aspire to teach others, it carries responsibilities - including the safety of the students. FWW wouldn't dream of allowing someone in a video with long unbound hair, loose sleeves, or wearing gloves around rotating machinery. Why do they insist on removing the guards from their table saws for through cuts?

Do it right guys...

Still demonstrating unsafe practices? Would you please put the friggin' guard on that table saw?

I really hate it when "respectable" sources such as yourself show a table saw being used with guards removed. This is highly irresponsible and totally unnecessary for this project.

Thinking about the Rockwell Jawhorse...

Very nice, but the last section regarding the "micro-bevel" muddies the term. The way you do it, it would be better referred to as a secondary bevel, or just bevel.

Ideally, a micro bevel is made with just two or three passes on the highest grit. It doesn't need to be any wider than a few microns. The whole point of a micro bevel is that you are honing as small an area as possible, so that when dull, a few laps on the highest grit will have you back to razor sharp.

I'd suggest following the steps just as outlined, then, after sharpening on the highest grit, rotate the jigs knob to add a micro-bevel of 3 degrees. Take two more strokes on the highest grit, lap the wire edge off the back and you are done. When it starts getting dull, two or three strokes on the highest grit (at the final micro-bevel angle) and you can get back to work.

As soon as Lie-Nielsen introduces a hatchet with M2 steel, custom brass inlay and of course the special sharpening jig, I'll be able to work just like these guys!