MKenney

dcgrafix:I never had any problems from holding Japanese pull saws. Are you having trouble with them?

dyweller: Could you give me some examples of the kind of subtle and advanced techniques you have in mind?

shrogers4,

Not a bad idea. I'll keep notes on how they work and write up a blog on each one.

I see a few more questions have popped up for me.

1. I prefer to use my bench (the so-called monster bench), but it wasn't practical to bring it in for this video. The bench I was using is in our shop here at FWW and is a fine bench. However, benches are tools and you get used to working on the one you always work on. So I did miss mine. That being said, my techniques were not any different.

2. I have not attempted to reset the teeth on my saws so that I would get a smaller kerf. As for the cleanness of the cut, the crosscut saw I use leaves a clean cut on the shoulders, but even if it didn't the shoulder plane would take care of that. I'm not worried about the cleanness of the cheek cuts, as the rabbet block plane will definitely take of any messiness. It's the planes that give you smooth surfaces, not the saws.

3. The are at least two contemporary makers of shoulder planes (Lie-Nielsen and Veritas). I like a medium shoulder plane. Mike likes his large one. As far as I know, only LN makes a rabbet block plane at present. Sargent, which no longer makes planes, made one but you'd have to search eBay, flea markets, etc. to find one.

4. When trimming tenons, there is a risk of ending up with a tenon that is off center. There are two ways to avoid that. Work up to layout lines, but do not go past them. Take an equal number of passes on both sides of the tenon with the rabbet block plane.

I think that gets all of the questions. If I missed one, let me know.

JLYoung,

LN does now sell a version of the Rabbet Block plane with a nicker. I've always used the version without a nicker. The nicker is actually meant to sever the fibers so that the blade doesn't cause any tearout on cross grain cuts. So, it doesn't help to keep the blade close to the shoulder. My first suggestion to solve your problem is to make sure that the blade is flush with the side of the plane that is against the shoulder. It sounds to me as if it is not, so the plane is not cutting tight into the corner, which leaves a tiny little lip. Well, with the next stroke the plane will be guided by that lip, which means a second lip, even further away from the shoulder, will be formed. That becomes worse with every swipe. Getting the blade flush to the side of the plane will solve that problem.

Best of luck.

I see there are a lot of questions for me. I'll do my best to work through them all. Here's a few answers.

1. The big rip saw has 11 tpi.

2. I use a jigsaw blade to make the cutters for my marking gauges. Look for issue 211 (out soon). There will an entire article about how I make them.

3. Always cut the mortises first. It is quite easy to make the tenon fit the mortise, but the opposite isn't easy at all.

4. You absolutely should take an equal amount off each side of the tenon when trimming them with a handplane. I try to keep track in my head. However, it helps that I have layout lines on the tenon, so I can simply trim to the line. After that I am more careful about how much I'm taking off each side.

APO,

Sorry, I just saw your question. Selection will be made very soon. I don't want to give an exact time frame so as not to disappoint if something unexpected happens.

Matt

Personally, I'm always trying to improve my speed. I love the process, but want to be more efficient. I don't like tedious, stuttering tasks. I like to get in a groove and work quickly. In other words, just because you enjoy the process doesn't mean you can work quickly and efficiently.

Matt

RoomeAL,

The dust up hasn't occurred yet, so there's no video yet. The live feed is this afternoon. The video will be up some time after that.

Matt

Dan,

You're right that one machine and one setup isn't necessary for accuracy, but it sure is efficient and easy to do it that way. That's why I referred to it as the best way. There are, of course, other very good ways to do it.

knoxmtn,

I looked for a bearing that would give me a 1/8 in. deep groove but was unable to find one. I'm sure they sell them online, but making the fence was less aggravation than hunting down, ordering, and waiting for the bearing to arrive. The bearing that came with the bit ends up cutting a very deep groove. Also, I don't fancy using the bit with the entire diameter exposed, so I still would have buried it in a fence.

Patrick,

You've been holding out on me. I didn't see all of that stuff. I applaud the tools you bought at my recommendation. And that flat back tape measure is fantastic. I will be getting one myself.

Matt K.

ADD2,

I'd be surprised if you spent $700+ rehabbing your saw, even with a new fence. Unless I am missing something in your comment, the most expensive part will be the fence. I guess you could spend in the neighborhood of $400 for a new fence, but there are great after market fences that would cost much less. The other parts shouldn't cost too much.

I should note that you won't be able to find a true riving knife for the saw. The way that the motor and trunnion work prohibits it.

I can't make a decision for you, but I can say that a 1950s era unisaw is one heck of a machine. I would be glad to have one.

Woodjoy,

I hope you see this. I didn't know you has asked a question until today, the day before Thanksgiving. I can't wait until there is automatic notification for comments. To answer your question, if you look in the one picture that has a saw, the sawhook is the wooden device that the saw is cutting through and that the workpiece is resting on. Basically, it is a wood surface (plywood in this case) that has a fence to press the workpiece against, and on its underside is another piece of wood that works to hook the thing against the bench when I push on it to hold the workpiece in place. It is a guide for sawing roughly to 90 degrees (or 45).

saschafer,

You're right that you'll need to practice in order to get at hand cut dovetails. But why do you need to do them at all? I know of many successful furniture makers who are great designers and technicians that never use them. Modern woodworkers, especially hobbyists, seem to have made a fetish out of dovetails. And that's not good.

One of the problems I have with the overwhelming emphasis on dovetails is that it limits design. I'm not necessarily thinking of drawers here, but of carcass construction. When I gave up dovetails as the be all and end all for carcass construction, I realized that I could start to do cool overhands on the top and bottom and that I could make much more curvaceous cabinets. That was a good.

Matt

Bill,

Thanks for the comment. I have to say that I didn't even think of how stressful it can be to cut dovetails. All the more reason to avoid them until you've mastered them. There are many options, just as beautiful and strong, that won't stress you out as much.

Matt

JLYoung,

You should be able to find a manual at www.owwm.com. Look under "Machine Info" and then under "Publication Reprints." I found a manual for my jointer and my tablesaw there.

- Matt

RedF

We're still accepting submisssions. So send them in.

Here's a few notes on heat treating.

I used a MAPP gas torch (the kind you can buy at a home center) to harden the blade. Focus the flame about 1 inch up from the bevel and let the heat slowly travel toward it. The bevel is very easy to burn. When the business end of the blade is cherry red/bright orange quench it in some vegetable oil. I put about a quart in a small paint can. If it were to catch fire I could quickly put the lid on and cut off the oxygen. I wiped of the oil and then put the blades in the oven for 30 minutes. It was pre-heated to 460 degrees. I then took them out and let them cool down in the air. They take a great edge and cut wonderfully. I should note that I am no expert on heat treating. I have no idea how hard the blades are. I just know that they cut well and retain a good edge.

Thanks for all the comments everyone. I've been out with the flu and forgot the check this blog for comments. For those of you hoping to see these as an article one day, I think the chances are good. If they don't end up in the magazine, I'll do something more detailed on the web. So, I'll hold off on giving dimensions and the like right now. However, if you search our website, you'll find a recent article by David Finck that gives the basics on the Krenov method of plane making.

I apologize for not giving all of the nitty-gritty details. This blog post was never meant to be a how-to. It is really just a peak at something I did. I should also note, that I sometimes forgot that most people aren't like me in that I'm more than willing to just go out in the shop and give something a try. I didn't have any instructions on how to make these. I knew the Krenov method and found the bed angle in a book on plane making that I own. Everything else was figured out by making prototypes. That's not a criticism of those looking for detailed instructions. It's just an explanation of why I didn't think to include that info in this blog.

Also, as I explained in the blog, I made these planes to satisfy my particular way of making drawers and trays. So I thought the dimensions (location and depth of groove) were a bit to particular to be of use to others.

Re: irons that are already heat treated. Lee Valley sells replacement blades for their plow plane. I've not seen them in person, but there is a chance they would work for a plane like this. You'd have to buy one to try.

Jon,

If by working irons you mean one that are already heat treated, then I don't think I can help. I don't know of anywhere to buy heat treated irons that would work, that's why I bought the annealed iron blanks from Lie-Nielsen. Don't be discouraged by the prospect of heat treating irons. I used a MAPP gas torch to harden mine and then tempered them in the kitchen oven. It's a lot easier than you might think.

flairwoodworks:

A piston fit drawer shouldn't be any less durable than one that fits less well. However, you should think carefully about the appeal of a piece a furniture whose main attraction is a air pressure gauge. It might be too much of a novelty.

An article is possible, but it would be focused on how to make and use them. What would you find interesting or useful about the history of grooving planes? In other words, what would you want to know? A history of molding planes in general, I'm afraid, would need an article (or book) all its own.

philh,

The planes are 1 in. thick, 5 1/2 in. long, and 2 1/2 in. tall (on the side with the fence). The bed angle is 57 degrees and the front of the throat is 67 degrees.

To make the skate/bed, I started out by planing it as thick as the iron is wide. After I had the plane glued together, I used a shoulder plane to take a few thousandths off one side. I left it as is on the side facing the fence. That way the plane would tend to pull itself against the workpiece. After I put some finish on (one very thin coat of Tried & True danish oil) there was no binding at all.

Hope that helps.

Philh,

It's possible that these could end up in a future issue, but what in particular would you like to know about them?

Matt

Smith5963

I, of course, chose the word impeccable. I suppose we could argue about whether or not the denotation of the word applies here (I think it does). But I believe the connotation does. In other words, I think that how the word is used by average, but intelligent, people would cover how I've used it. Dictionaries, while helpful, are neither exhaustive nor authoritative.

As for who thinks Hank's sense of design is that good. Well, I do, so do many others here at the magazine, and so too have hundreds, if not thousands, of satisfied customers thought it excellent. But, more importantly, his design abilities have been demonstrated across a broad range of fields, from furniture making, to landscape design, to the design of tunnels and interiors. Regardless of the object, Hank does a nice job.

You might not like his work. So be it. Don't participate.

Finally, I try not to find my humor in others. I'm always worried that while I'm looking at others and laughing, I fail to notice something even more laughable about myself.

I really like this piece. Great veneer work. -Matt K.

I got the box glued together yesterday and made an ebony pull for the lid. I got a few minutes in the shop today and cleaned up another stud for the trays I'm making for the inside. Great news: beautiful, tight grained quarter-sawn wood underneath. I'll post a picture in my next blog.

Wow, this is a big response. I'll say that I would love to furnish my shop with older stationary machines that I rehabed. I would even replace the brushes on a hand held power tool. But I don't think I would rebuild batteries. The technology moves so quickly that by the time a battery finally dies, the new version of the tool cheaper and better. I just bought a small 12 volt Litium Ion powered drill and impact driver that run marathons around my other cordless drills (which are bigger and heavier).

Ted,

I always appreciate the truly charitable assumptions readers and posters make about my intelligence and their efforts to educate me. But I should point out that it was just a mistake, a momentary lapse, and not a error due to complete ignorance of a rule of grammar.

Matt

Floss,

I don't really take is seriously, at least not the part about me being a dandy. But the person who wrote the letter doesn't seem to be joking. What I do take seriously is the implication that woodworkers all look (or should look) a particular way, and the claim that the cover is some kind of false image of woodworking.

cocopuffed,

I'm not sure what you mean by "pure art," but I suspect that you have in mind that furniture must be functional and that this bookcase isn't functional. Perhaps you are even thinking that furniture should only be functional (that is, it can't make philosophic, political, or any other type of statement).

Philosophically, I think you're wrong on both points. But let me point out that this bookshelf is actually holding books, and could easily be used as a bookshelf in a house. I could certainly see myself using this bookself in my house as a bookshelf. Not only would I get to store some books, but I would also get to express a particular position on the decline of the printed (on paper) word.

Matt K.

2straightlines:

Why would someone burn kauri? It costs at least $25 per bd. ft.!

Bill,

I don't think we ever met. That's too bad. I'm glad you got to see this blog, though.

Matt

Saschafer,

Are you still having trouble? Everything works fine for me.

Matt

Papabear:

All that is needed is two cleats attached to underside of the top. I would put one just to the inside of each of the top members on the trestles. They should be snug up against those cross members. I’ll do that one day, but in all honesty, my top doesn’t move, and there’s nothing holding it in place.--MK

I'm making a bow front wall cabinet from Madrone. The Cuban mahogany is for a bank of drawer fronts. The deep brown of the mahogany should compliment the deep pinkish red of the Madrone (and there's a nice brown streak separating the sap and heart wood).

Bill,
Gina saw your post before me, but she gave you my response. With a shorter bench I would recommend securing the top (it won't be as heavy).

Best of luck. Matt

Thanks for the link Panch. I forwarded it to the other editors. We all enjoyed it. It is truly amazing work. It's guys like Jansen that help me remember that I'm really not all that smart.

Jstory,

If I remember correctly, there are around 90 bd. ft. in the bench. But don't go by the number of board feet if you build the bench. Rather, think about the size boards you'll need for the parts. For example, 1 8/4 board that's 8 ft. long and 6 in. wide would give you two of the boards needed to make the top. Check for knots and other defects. If they're bad, you don't want that board, unless you can cut around it for trestle parts. Look for a really good board for the apron.

Good luck.

Thanks for the compliments folks. I'm glad ya'll liked it. I had a great time making the video and bench.

As for the jointer, all I know is that it is a Hammer and has a 12 in. capacity. It actually belongs to Anatole Burkin. However, I believe it is the same model Hammer jointer/planer that was reviewed in FWW #190. Rollie Johnson (make that Roland) did the review. Search the archives, using "jointer" and "planer" and the article is the 7th link down.

Matt

Sorry I haven't checked this blog for any posts recently. I wish we would get a notification when there's a comment.

Let me answer your questions. I bought the bench bolts from Lee Valley, but Highland Hardware has bolts and nuts that are the same size.

As for how the bench is attached. You didn't miss anything. There is nothing about how the top is attached. In all honesty, the top is heavy enough to just sit on the legs and not move. About the only thing that would move it is pulling the apron away from the legs. However, a simple way to keep the top in place is this. Attach two battens to the underside of the top. One just to the inside of each upper member of the trestles. Use three screws on each, but make sure that you make slots in the battens, not holes, for the outer two. That will allow the top to move with the seasons. And it will expand and contract, especially if your shop is unheated or lacks central air.

Sorry folks, the new series starts on 2/23 not 2/13. Clearly, I was suffering from a late afternoon mental recession when I wrote the date.

Biohaz1906:

I appreciate your concern, but you're wrong. Fine Woodworking is about educating its readers about woodworking: the best materials, the best tools, and the best techniques. One way to educate is to show what shouldn't be done. This video does precisely that, and, let me add, it is clear that neither I nor anyone else thinks that what the guy is doing is safe or good practice. In fact, it is abundantly clearly that we all disapprove.

It is highly likely that someone has read this blog, looked at the video, and said, "Oh, I shouldn't use the fence when crosscutting. I didn't know that."

Keep in mind that in order to learn how to do something, you often need to be told or shown how not to do it.

Hey folks,

Thanks for all the comments so far. You've got some great ideas on "out of the ordinary" ways to get lumber, and I'm thinking that we'll talk about that too. But I'd love to hear about specific woods that you've used to make furniture. It seems that hardwoods grown locally can be had for a steal, and that many of them (aspen, red elm, alder, sassafras, to name a few) make for beautiful furniture. So let me know about those specific woods too.

Efficiency does drive me mad, but I did mention it. Check the third to last paragraph. What I need is a solar powered router.

That's for sure. I've had some leg parts from an old table my mother-in-law gave me. One made a nice little box, but I saw them sitting in my office and thought, "turn 'em." So I did. Now I'll be looking over the scraps and throwing them into two piles: wood stove and turning.

Molson0620,

I'm not sure how serious you are, but I can assure you that although I might not be a Maine native, I am by no means fancy. I too need tools at an affordable price. And I didn't buy the plane and gauge to have them sit on a shelf somewhere. They'll be put to very good use in my shop. (And to make sure it's clear, I'll say that I write this with a smile and friendly voice.)

But I wouldn't worry too much if I were you. The NE is a great place to look for used tools. If you'd like the names of a few other places in ME and the nearby area, let me know and we can exchange emails.

Robin,

Now that's an odd coincidence, because my plane gauge and No. 7 we a bit of a package deal too. As for eBay, I've bought two planes there, but now prefer. Glad my random little post offered you some useful information.

Matt

My cabinet isn't old enough to date yet.