Setting up shop: Machine number two.
comments (6) July 31st, 2009 in blogs
I suggest the second major machine acquisition should be a good quality bandsaw. No, not a table saw, not in the number two slot. True, the table saw rips and crosscuts very well but it is far less versatile.
The great freedom afforded by a good bandsaw can change your relationship to wood. Here is a sampling of bandsaw work:
- cut curvy legs from 12/4 mahogany
- resaw a 10" figured board into bookmatched panels
- make your own 3/32" veneer
- select out furniture parts from stock irrespective of their orientation to the original edge of the board
- cut tenons
- cut and dry some wood from a tree felled in your backyard
- try some sculptural work
- rip laminates for bent lamination work
- cut out cartoon characters and toys for your kids
A bandsaw will generally not rip as cleanly as a table saw, but with an excellent blade it does a surprisingly good job that can be cleaned up and trued reasonably easily with a hand plane. For clean, accurate, consistent crosscutting, it must be conceded that the table saw is the clear winner. Still, the shooting board can take care of that issue. If I had to give up one of these two machines, there is no doubt the table saw would go because the lack of a bandsaw would be far more limiting to my range of designs and work.
The bandsaw takes up much less shop space than a typical table saw. There is an additional, hard- to-define virtue of bandsawing. It is the machine work that I liken most to hand tool work. I feel in touch with the cutting action and in control of the work, unlike with the table saw where, after the setup for a cut, the machine essentially rules. A bandsaw is also much more fun to use than a table saw, jointer, or planer.
I suggest a steel frame saw in preference to a cast iron version, with at least 10" cutting height, preferably 12" or more. Lower priced steel frame saws in the $800-900 range, such as the Rikon 10-325 or Grizzly G0457, are not more expensive than a quality cast iron model with a riser block. Better still, move up to a bigger saw such as a Minimax or Agazzani.
Build your wood shop team by adding a quality bandsaw to the roster early on, and you are likely to increase your woodworking skill, fun, and versatility.
What’s next? I’ll leave this question open for now, but I think the table saw is in line behind the router table. If you’re really hooked on woodworking, you can work your way down the wish list in due time. Happy woodworking.
| More in this series • Which Machine First and Why |
posted in: blogs, bandsaw, shop, machinery
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Comments (6)
Posted: 4:07 pm on August 18th
Regarding the roles of the jointer and planer and the "which machine first" question, I suggested in my post that the necessary flattening of one side of a board can be done by hand reasonably quickly and more easily than thicknessing a board by hand. The latter task still remains for hand work to achieve the desired thickness if you have a jointer but lack a planer (unless certain rigs are attached to the jointer which I feel are awkward).
My suggestion for machine number two, the bandsaw, is also a subjective choice, based largely on the versatility and creativity capable with this machine, even by novice woodworkers.
For the record, I happily use my Saw Stop cabinet table saw, jointer, and routers. I like them almost as much as I like my hand tools!
Posted: 2:15 pm on August 18th
Dustdog in 100% correct. No one who is buying a bandsaw as their second machine, will ever do anything mentioned on your list of "bandsaw work." And besides that, I can't believe you didn't choose a Jointer as machine number two. The Jointer and the Planer complement each other. There is no sense in having one without the other, especially if you are building furniture. The two together are a must. But still, no one should buy any of these machines, until they get their Table saw set up.
Posted: 1:52 am on August 12th
Posted: 6:46 pm on July 31st
You might not think of a dust collector and air filtration unit as traditional "shop machines," but hands down, they operate more hours in my shop than anything else with a plug. They are not as glamorous as the tools with blades, cutters, knives, and inserts, but they make the other tools cleaner, safer, and more comfortable to use for extended periods.
Posted: 11:48 am on July 31st
I'm in agreement an almost all of your points until you get to vertical capacity. You emphasize at least 10" preferably 12" or more.
I see no advantage to spending a lot of money trying to achieve a cutting height that will be seldom used.
I do a lot of resawing and find that for gluing up panels I avoid wide pieces due to the likelihood of warping, especially in the over 8" width glueups. Thinner panels of 3/4" or so are even more vulnerable.
I use a 17" Griz that will cut up to 9-1/2" but almost always limit it to 8" for that reason. I have never needed panel segments wider than 9".
Posted: 8:52 am on July 31st
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